During Milan Fashion Week, a quiet confidence emanated from the courtyard of the Portrait Milano hotel. Maximilian Davis’s Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2026 collection looked back to the 1920s, the decade in which the Florentine house was born. It was not a loud costume party but rather a thoughtful consideration of an era of profound social change reflected in the clothing.
The Creative director’s exploration of the archives revealed a 1925 photograph of silent film star Lola Todd adorned in leopard print. This image sparked an exploration of how exotic prints and materials traveled from Africa and the Caribbean to Europe and became symbols of status. Davis reimagined this concept for the present day with silk satin devoré animal prints and supple leather jewelry, offering a contemporary interpretation of the period’s eclecticism.
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For women, the central theme was a liberated elegance. The collection featured speakeasy-style suits and simple, straight-cut slip dresses with delicate lace insets. Silhouettes with dropped waists and low-slung backs recalled the freedom women expressed through their wardrobes. Davis explained that he was drawn to this rebellious period when individuals created their own spaces and defined a new sense of self.
The menswear drew from the expressive style of the Harlem Renaissance, with zoot suits and relaxed dandyism coloring the collection’s spirit. Slouchy tailoring with shawl collars and pajama-like ensembles exuded a laid-back, nonchalant vibe. In a clever twist, men’s ties were repurposed as sashes for tuxedo waists or incorporated into patchwork dresses, connecting the masculine and feminine wardrobes.
Footwear and accessories displayed the house’s renowned craftsmanship. A new sculptural “S” heel evolved from previous seasons. Caged leather pumps updated an archival Kimo design, and Gancini chains wrapped around the ankles of sharp, pointed-toe shoes. The signature Hug bag was presented in new materials, such as patent leather and nubuck suede, celebrating the brand’s heritage with a fresh perspective.