The Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2026 collection arrived with a clear intention. It exuded an atmosphere of ease and optimism, pointing toward a sharper, more youthful energy that felt right for the moment. For women who care about clothes as more than just a surface-level thing, the show offered both playfulness and substance.
Julian Klausner, the creative force behind the brand, envisioned surfers at sunset. Not the kitschy postcard version, but rather, a mood of freedom and vitality. This spirit was evident on the runway, where pieces celebrated color and texture without resorting to cliché.
The opening looks set a calm tone. Pale whites and muted grays shimmered with subtle beadwork, evoking the appearance of morning light on water. Soon after, stronger colors appeared. Shades of lime, coral, tomato red, and hot pink cut confidently across the stage. The progression built momentum until the entire runway glowed like a shoreline at dusk.
Silhouettes shifted between structured and fluid. A sculptural wool top with sharp shoulders echoed the shape of a wetsuit, yet it exuded couture polish. Sheer caftans adorned with sequins floated across the stage, and short, wetsuit-inspired rompers had the casual appeal of beachwear but were styled for city life. Swingy shifts outlined with rhinestones evoked the sparkle of water at sundown. The collection offered garments that spoke to both fantasy and wearability.
Klausner’s tailoring showed respect for the label’s heritage. Two-tone jackets found new life when paired with gauzy skirts. Military coats and longline jackets featured unexpected details, such as canary yellow wool panels and velvet trims in deep midnight blue. The cuts were precise, yet the clothes never looked rigid. Instead, they suggested movement, even when standing still.
Follow all the latest news from Fashionotography on Flipboard, or receive it directly in your inbox with Feeder.
You might also read
The accessories played their role with intent. Sneakers came in a spectrum of colors, each one an injection of energy. They looked as though they belonged on the street rather than tucked away as novelty items. Their practicality underscored Klausner’s aim of creating wardrobe staples charged with imagination.
For women looking ahead to next season, the Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2026 collection offers a vocabulary of optimism. There are sheer pieces for layering, sharp coats for everyday wear, and embroidered separates that can be worn from day to evening. The color palette is generous and vibrant, yet the cuts remain grounded in reality. The result is inviting instead of intimidating.
Klausner is not a designer led by mood boards or retro references. While some of the wetsuit stripes recalled film characters from the 1980s, his work looked to the future rather than the past. The shapes are younger, shorter, and lighter than before. Still, those loyal to the brand could recognize the integrity of its design language. A cropped black blazer adorned with bullion embroidery and a hibiscus red skirt assured that refinement remains central.
Fashion thrives on shifts in tone, and this season’s shift at Dries Van Noten feels measured yet significant. The optimism Klausner sought was present without showiness. It was evident in the way colors caught the eye, the way fabrics moved against the body, and the way practical items like sneakers seamlessly entered the wardrobe.
The Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2026 collection is not about nostalgia. It’s about setting a mood that reflects confidence and renewal. In that sense, the collection feels less like a departure and more like a continuation, designed for women who want modern clothes with character.