Stephane Rolland‘s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection transported us to a bygone era of Parisian allure. Unveiled on the stage of the Salle Pleyel theater, the show unfolded like a black-and-white movie, a love letter to the “pure glamour and elegance” of the French capital in the 1940s and 1950s.
Rolland drew inspiration from the city’s artistic spirit during this period, citing the poetry of Jacques Prévert and the evocative photographs of Brassaï. These influences translated into a collection brimming with a nostalgic romanticism.
Evoking a Parisian shrouded in mystery and sensuality, the palette favored a sophisticated black and white, with flowing silhouettes adding a touch of drama. Think Edith Piaf meets a young Jeanne Moreau, shrouded in an air of intrigue. This wasn’t about ostentatious displays; instead, Rolland reveled in a subtle sensuality and a certain “je ne sais quoi.”
The designer masterfully manipulated luxurious fabrics – wool crepe, velvet, gazar, tulle, and satin – to create a captivating play of textures. Tailoring took center stage this season, with broad-shouldered jackets offering a touch of masculine power that could easily transform into a cinched dress. This architectural rigor beautifully contrasted with the diaphanous fluidity of chiffon gowns.
Rolland described the collection as “graphic, but soft,” and indeed, there was a harmonious balance between structure and fluidity. Deep-plunging necklines added a touch of provocative elegance, accentuated by bare backs and sparkling diamond belts adorning exposed skin.
A standout piece was a long dress crafted from nude tulle and black chiffon, draped with a dramatic black gazar neckline and a belt embellished with crystals and sapphires. Another captivating look featured a bubble jacket in black and white jersey and gazar worn over a long, flowing black jersey skirt.
The show culminated in a breathtaking finale, featuring a voluminous white hooded bridal gown adorned with delicate porcelain embroidery and white organza petals. Here, the essence of classic French elegance reached its apex.
Read more: Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Stephane Rolland
