Sportmax‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled “Camera Obscura,” took a thought-provoking turn, offering a blend of subverted sensuality and enigmatic references. Held in a red-lit, mirrored space, the show set the tone for a collection that played with the power of suggestion.
This season, Sportmax explored a different side of femininity, one that reveled in veiled seduction rather than overt display. Corsets, traditionally associated with constriction, were reimagined as cinching belts, highlighting the silhouette without revealing too much. Hints of skin emerged strategically through sheer panels and peek-a-boo cutouts, adding a touch of intrigue.
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Military outerwear, another unexpected element, was given a sensual twist. Tailored topcoats with sharp shoulders were juxtaposed against boudoir-inspired marabou shawls and tinsel shrugs, creating a fascinating interplay of masculine and feminine. The collection paid homage to iconic 80s musicians like Nico and Debbie Harry, drawing inspiration from their rebellious spirit and powerful personas. Subtle album cover prints, including one reading “create beauty,” served as a subtle nod to these muses.
The second half of the collection presented a stark contrast. Wide-waisted sports shorts, skinny ties, and unexpected elements like a grinning toad and knuckle dusters created a sense of confusion. While some pieces felt like individual statements, the overall vision remained elusive. Even the graphics, inspired by album covers, felt like “dressed-up merch” rather than a cohesive narrative.
Despite featuring some undeniably striking pieces, the collection ultimately left viewers with more questions than answers. The intended message and the connection between the disparate elements remained unclear. While the press release referenced the mystery associated with Nico, ultimately, the “Camera Obscura” collection felt like an enigma without a compelling puzzle to solve.
Read more: Alberta Ferretti Fall/Winter 2024 – Milan Fashion Week
©Photo: Sportmax
