Designer Jay Song has once again demonstrated his mastery with Songzio‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Drawing inspiration from the Baroque era and fusing it with modern sensibilities, the lineup offers a fresh perspective on the fusion of Eastern and Western aesthetics.
At the heart of the collection is a reinterpretation of the picadilly collar, a symbol of status in Diego Velázquez’s portraits. Jay Song reimagines this historical element using crinkled leather reinforced with hidden layers of aluminum, giving it a starched and slightly off-kilter appearance. Paired with matching cuffs that protrude from the sleeves, these collars add drama to the silhouettes and emphasize the play of volume and proportion.
The collection experiments with shape, offering voluminous tops and jodhpurs that accentuate the hips, contrasted with cinched ankles. There are fitted tops paired with wide, flowing skirts and trousers, some made from multiple flaps of fabric. Patchwork is a key technique, combining up to seven fabrics in shades of black, gray and tobacco. The result is a soft, armor-like effect achieved through contrasting textures of tweed, waxed cotton, velvet, satin and leather.
Outerwear stands out with chunky belted coats in bouclé wool and oversized shearling jackets. These pieces embody the convergence of Western baroque aesthetics with Eastern avant-garde elements, creating a unique harmony between tradition and innovation.
Jay Song’s own paintings, inspired by Velázquez, are featured on select garments, adding a personal touch to the collection. One notable piece is a sweatshirt depicting a cardinal with the word “father” emblazoned across it, combining art and fashion in a compelling way.
The color palette is predominantly dark, with muted tones of black, brown and gray punctuated by vibrant accents of rich hues. The contrast between darkness and baroque shades of red, vermilion and yellow, along with unexpected metallic sheens, emphasizes the blend of grandeur and elegance.
The choice of fabrics is complex and unconventional, ranging from richly textured tweeds and linen wools to metallic and holographic materials. This diverse selection reflects the collection’s theme of merging different cultural eras and aesthetics.
©Photo: Songzio