Simone Rocha‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection captures the restless spirit of adolescence, fusing high school archetypes with her signature romantic flair. Drawing on nostalgia and personal history, the Irish designer reimagines teenage tropes – jocks, rebels, emos – through a lens of tender rebellion. The show, which took place in Goldsmiths’ Hall, unfolded like a wistful daydream of school days past, blending toughness and vulnerability in equal measure.
Rocha’s own teenage years seeped into the designs. Backstage, she confessed to channeling her emo roots with a moody playlist, while Thom Yorke’s haunting vocals underscored the melancholic energy of the runway. Models walked with purpose, clutching turtle figurines or draping themselves in elongated faux hare stoles-a nod to Aesop’s fable, a story their headmistress once used to teach patience. “Slow and steady wins the race” echoed in silhouettes like Fiona Shaw’s black satin egg dress, cinched with bicycle chain hardware, a subtle homage to clandestine rendezvous in bike sheds.
The collection balanced grit and grace. Rugged elements-biker jackets reimagined as puff-sleeve dresses, S&M-inspired harnesses, and belts that mimic bicycle locks-were juxtaposed with delicate details. Ribbons in blush pink and midnight black laced through brocade gowns, while car wash skirts in glittering tweed and organza added movement. For menswear, ruffled rugby tops and beaded suiting proved Rocha’s versatility.
Faux fur was a recurring motif, sliced into ribbons or shaped into Barbarella-esque bra tops. One standout piece paired a shredded pink jacquard dress with faux fur bloomers, embodying the clash between innocence and defiance. Even accessories carried narrative weight: resin turtle clutches balanced the drama of rabbit stoles, grounding the fantasy in quiet resilience.
Guests, many dressed in Simone Rocha’s past designs, reflected the collection’s eclectic charm. Victorian ballerinas brushed shoulders with stern magistrates, yet the Fall/Winter 2025 line felt accessible. Neoprene hoodies, duffel coats studded with jet beads, and beaded rugby shirts offered wearable nods to the theme.
Simone Rocha’s return to prettiness was surprising. She unleashed ribbon-studded dresses in baby blue and black, their simplicity disarming next to the collection’s edgier pieces. The finale, a military-style coat paired with a tortoise-shell clutch, felt like a quiet victory lap, proof that 15 years into her career, Rocha’s slow and steady approach is still dazzling.
©Photo: Simone Rocha
