Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior is a vibrant ode to childhood wonder, blending historic silhouettes with surrealist whimsy. Inspired by Lewis Carroll’s “Alice in Wonderland” and the dreamlike art of Leonor Fini and Dorothea Tanning, Chiuri reimagines fashion through a playful lens. The runway unfolded with voluminous crinolines, tiered capes, and ruffled bloomers that evoked the innocence of Victorian-era play while nodding to Dior‘s iconic Bar jacket and Yves Saint Laurent’s A-line designs.
Chiuri’s palette remained muted – black, beige and white – allowing intricate details to shine. Miniature cage skirts and puff sleeves borrowed from 17th-century tails and Edwardian silhouettes, while organza poufs resembled scribbled clouds. Embroidered botanical motifs by Indian artist Rithika Merchant adorned hoop skirts, though the real focus remained on exaggerated proportions and joyful experimentation. A standout black minidress with ruffled shoulders echoed Saint Laurent‘s post-Dior era, scaled up from children’s wear concepts.
The designer emphasized craftsmanship, pairing humble materials like raffia and horsehair with sheer corsets and textured crinals. “Couture is a game,” she remarked, emphasizing the collaboration with her team. Sheer corsetry revealed inner constructions and celebrated the artistry behind each piece.
Chiuri’s fascination with history extends beyond the collection. Two of her Dior designs are currently on display at the Louvre, though she shrugged off questions about legacy. “I’m living now,” she insisted, reflecting her philosophy of creative immersion. That mindset shielded her from the industry’s turbulence, focusing instead on evolving techniques for the March ready-to-wear show.
Bridal nods were subtle, with eyelet lace crinolines and bodices hinting at unconventional weddings. But the heart of the collection lay in its childlike freedom – a reminder that couture, like play, thrives on imagination. Chiuri’s work balanced a reverence for Dior’s heritage with a fresh, almost rebellious femininity, proving that even in haute couture, joy remains timeless.
©Photo: Dior
