| Saint Laurent Spring 2027 was presented in Paris on Tuesday under the direction of Creative director Anthony Vaccarello. The collection arrived as Vaccarello marked ten years at the French house. Gold dominated trench coats, tailoring, dresses and safari jackets across numerous materials. The presentation concluded with approximately twelve black looks. |
For Saint Laurent Spring 2027, Anthony Vaccarello chose an unusually narrow starting point: gold. Rather than treating the color as decoration, he applied it across familiar Saint Laurent categories, using material and construction to distinguish one look from another. The result was a collection concerned as much with the house’s past as with Vaccarello’s own decade in Paris.
Before the show, the designer skipped his customary conversations with journalists. Instead, he sent dark purple flowers with a handwritten message explaining that the collection had been in his mind for some time and felt deeply personal. That decision carried particular weight amid industry speculation about his future at Saint Laurent, although no departure was confirmed.
Gold becomes the main material story
Vaccarello has often built collections around a tightly defined idea, and Saint Laurent Spring 2027 followed that approach. Trench coats, pencil skirts, safari jackets, suits and evening dresses appeared in variations of gold.
The consistency of color made differences in fabric more important. Lamé offered a reflective surface, while organza and chiffon introduced transparency. Guipure lace, brocade, jacquard, metallic cotton and latex provided contrasting weights and finishes. Some pieces leaned toward brown or red, while others had the colder appearance of metallic foil.
This variety prevented the collection from becoming visually uniform. Pleating, creasing and ruffles changed how the material caught the light, while structured shoulders and defined waists kept many looks firmly connected to Saint Laurent’s established vocabulary.
Familiar Saint Laurent codes return
There were clear references to the house’s history. Safari shapes sat beside formal tailoring and cocktail dressing, while pronounced shoulders and generous sleeves recalled the assertive proportions associated with the 1980s.
Yet Vaccarello did not simply reproduce archival clothes. The references were reduced and reorganized through his own preference for elongated lines, controlled proportions and direct sensuality. If you removed the gold, many pieces would still be immediately recognizable as part of the Saint Laurent wardrobe.
The setting reinforced the focus on color. Three enormous gold chandeliers hung above a black catwalk, with the Eiffel Tower visible beyond the show space. Against that dark setting, the metallic clothing remained the central visual element.
Follow all the latest news from Fashionotography on Flipboard, or receive it directly in your inbox with Feeder.
You may also like
Black changes the closing mood
After the extensive use of gold, the final group arrived in black. Model Anja Rubik led this section in a velvet skirt suit with distinctly 1980s proportions. The shift returned attention to another enduring Saint Laurent signature: black clothing shaped through precise tailoring and controlled volume.
The presentation also coincided with roughly ten years of Vaccarello at the house. His decision to describe the collection as personal inevitably encouraged questions about whether it represented a turning point.
Those questions remain unanswered. What the clothes showed more clearly was a designer examining familiar Saint Laurent ideas through one disciplined constraint. Gold supplied the continuity, while fabric, proportion and historical references provided the differences. Saint Laurent Spring 2027 ultimately worked as a concise review of the codes Vaccarello has spent a decade refining.
