The Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2025 show, held in the rain-soaked courtyard of the brand’s Rue de Bellechasse headquarters, marked a return to the brand’s roots in more ways than one. Anthony Vaccarello, known for his bold, singular visions for the house, took a different approach for Spring/Summer 2025, drawing inspiration from the personal style of Yves Saint Laurent himself.
The collection showcased impeccably tailored suits, a hallmark of Saint Laurent’s legacy. These were not the androgynous interpretations often seen in womenswear, but rather a confident embrace of masculine tailoring, with double-breasted jackets, wide-leg trousers, and crisp shirts and ties. Vaccarello’s inspiration was clear: “After I read [an interview with Yves Saint Laurent], I thought, ‘OK, maybe that’s where I want to start,’” he explained backstage. “My last men’s show in March had been all about tailoring, but based on flou; I wanted this one to be the opposite – more strict. It’s not about when I would do a tuxedo for a woman which was worn naked underneath. The suits come with shirts, ties. You’re dressed. It’s about control, and power, in a way.”
While the tailoring was undeniably sharp and focused, Vaccarello also presented a softer side of the Saint Laurent woman, with flowing paisley dresses and luxurious brocade evening wear. These pieces, rich in color and texture, offered a counterpoint to the austerity of the tailoring and showcased the multifaceted nature of the modern woman. The opulent brocades and shimmering gold accents evoked the glamorous world of Saint Laurent muses such as Loulou de la Falaise and Nan Kempner, adding another layer of historical significance to the collection.
The Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a powerful statement from Vaccarello, demonstrating his deep understanding of the house’s heritage and his ability to translate it for a contemporary audience. In a season where many designers are struggling to find their footing, Vaccarello delivered a collection that was both timely and timeless, solidifying his place as one of the most exciting designers working today.
©Photo: Saint Laurent