Saint Laurent‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, presented by Anthony Vaccarello, shattered expectations with a daring exploration of transparency. Gone were the utilitarian cottons of last season, replaced by an entire collection crafted from the delicate, almost ephemeral fabric of hosiery.
Vaccarello’s vision wasn’t simply a continuation of the sheer trend, but a thoughtful reinvention. Inspired by Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent’s own flirtation with transparency in 1966, he imbued the collection with a unique blend of chicness and subversion.
The silhouettes were impeccably tailored, featuring bow-neck blouses, pencil skirts, and draped dresses that maintained a sense of propriety despite their sheerness. The color palette resonated with rich hues of taupe, caramel, olive, and chocolate brown, offering a sophisticated counterpoint to the revealing nature of the fabric.
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Vaccarello acknowledged the impracticality of using hosiery for an entire wardrobe, highlighting the exceptional craftsmanship of the Saint Laurent ateliers who managed to overcome the fabric’s delicate nature. He envisioned the collection as fleeting, a fleeting exploration of an idea that resonated with him personally.
This unconventional approach, prioritizing artistic expression over commercial practicality, sparked debate. While some critics might draw comparisons to the “Emperor’s New Clothes,” others saw it as a refreshing departure from the expected, a space for experimentation and playful exploration.
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©Photo: Saint Laurent
