Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2025 collection arrived as a vivid declaration of emotion, leaning on bold hues and clean silhouettes while nodding to the house’s storied past. Backstage, an hour before the show, the designer described his vision as “clean, with no embellishments“-a philosophy that translated into saturated ochre khaki coats, coral sack dresses, and amethyst blouses stripped of excess. This season, Vaccarello traded darkness for optimism, channeling Yves Saint Laurent’s 1990s haute couture with a modern twist.
The runway itself was a study in contrasts. Models walked through a caramel-lit space framed by backlit onyx, their looks balancing sharp tailoring with fluid movement. High-necked blouses and wedge-shaped coats featured shoulders constructed not with padding but with fusible interlining, allowing the fabric to drape naturally. Vaccarello acknowledged past obsessions with rigid structure, but here freedom took precedence. Silhouettes tapered from assertive shoulders to narrow hems, echoing the inverted triangles of YSL’s archival designs. Leather blousons – now a Vaccarello signature – added edge, thrown over lace slip dresses that flared into teacup skirts without crinolines.
Color dominated without overwhelming. Terracotta trenches, citrine jersey dresses and olive satin skirts showed off combinations instantly recognizable as Saint Laurent: unexpected yet harmonious. Technical fabrics like stretch jersey lent ease, while stone-washed textures softened the grandeur. Accessories were sparse but potent – slingbacks with curved heels, sculpted gold earrings, leather gauntlets – but conspicuously absent were bags. “Let others do the merch walk,” Vaccarello seemed to say, prioritizing artistry over commercial cues.
The emotional core of the collection was palpable. Inspired by YSL’s oft-overlooked work from the ’90s, Vaccarello revived rhinestone sunglasses and watery, silicone-slicked florals, pairing them with minimalist makeup and tousled hair. His final looks-voluminous tulle skirts paired with leather aviators-embodied a tension between romance and rebellion. When asked about his approach, he emphasized honesty: “If you want to do couture, do it.” Though he hinted at future couture ambitions, this show remained rooted in ready-to-wear, whose power lies in cut and color rather than embellishment.
What remained was the quiet confidence of Vaccarello’s women. They wore mannish suits and narrow skirts with the ease of those who do not have to shout to be seen. In a fashion landscape often crowded with logomania, Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2025 stood out – a reminder that true elegance speaks through restraint.
©Photo: Saint Laurent