Forget the moody noirs of past seasons. Noir Kei Ninomiya‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection bursts with color, texture, and childlike wonder, a playful departure from his signature punk aesthetic.
“I tried to make something new this time,” Ninomiya said after the show, “using more colors, more textures and mixing different kinds of materials.” This new direction was evident from the first look, a riot of color and texture that resembled a 3D doodle come to life.
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The runway became a canvas for Ninomiya’s experimentation. Fluttering florals, clouds of tulle, and sprays of feathers danced with a joyous whimsy. These looks were punctuated by vibrant Reebok Instapump Fury sneakers, part of Ninomiya’s latest collaboration that extended to bags as well.
Black, Ninomiya’s signature hue, still found a place in the collection, peeking through in gridded fuzzy coats and sleek accessories. But it was the unexpected flourishes that truly surprised. Tailored jackets boasted straight collars adorned with boteh motifs, while charming balloon-sleeve tops in khaki satin and playful plaid separates offered a dressier direction for the brand. XXL knits crafted from satin tubing showcased Ninomiya’s ongoing exploration of stitchless garments, proving his creative fire continues to burn brightly.
The playful spirit extended beyond the visuals. The bombastic, American-accented voiceover announcing each look with game-show theatrics morphed into a child’s repetitive “OK” by the show’s end, mirroring the collection’s shift from playful to whimsical.
Entitled “Iridescence,” the collection explored reflection through a vibrant lens. Psychedelic motifs reminiscent of Burning Man couture adorned the models, a mesmerizing kaleidoscope of color and texture. Twisted wires outlined floral shapes embedded in frothy tulle, while rainbow feathers cascaded over macramé bodices. Synthetic pastel “hair” intermingled with cotton candy tulle skirts, creating a sense of otherworldly playfulness.
A nod to Ninomiya’s signature surrealist punk aesthetic emerged in a section featuring a marine green paisley brocade jacket paired with black shorts and a twisted chrome wire harness. But even here, the focus was on vibrant color, with an olive quilted country-wear jacket boasting pops of emergency orange, a standout piece in the collection.
The final act of the show solidified the collection’s playful spirit. Satin-shine olive quilted pieces were reimagined with rainbow reflective finishes, while a dress resembling opaque gift wrap gave way to magnificent capelets and dresses that resembled stained glass masterpieces. The closing look, a model seemingly swarmed by floral-shaped insects, served as a final, unforgettable flourish.
Read more: Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week
©Photo: Noir Kei Ninomiya
