Entitled “Metal Couture”, the Noir Kei Ninomiya Fall/Winter 2021 collection initially majored on thin, stainless-steel spikes. Kei Ninomiya manipulated them to the point where they often appeared to be a part of the delicate, sheer fabrics they were attached to.
These fierce, conceptually punk assemblages for sure threatened injection. A brace of black clusters of puckered organza (sea sponge–ish) preceded a more conventionally readable passage of costume in which Ninomiya ran dark creative amok among 19th-century silhouettes in a manner not unadjacent to his boss Rei Kawakubo, playing harness against ruffle, ruche, and skirt.
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Other uses of metals included intricate ruffles of zippers, whose volume echoed layers of blue organza on an overcoat and chunky black cable knits. Strips of a silver, foil-like material were carefully arranged to give volume and shape to a zip-front dress and high-neck top.