Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Nº21 Fall/Winter 2025 show unfolded as a love letter to Sofia Coppola’s cinematic universe, fusing the director’s visual poetry with the designer’s signature rebellious elegance. For women with a passion for fashion, the collection offered a study in contrasts – minimalist silhouettes collided with decadent embellishments, while soft pastels tempered leather-clad boldness.
Dell’Acqua anchored the lineup with three Coppola classics. “Lost in Translation” inspired sharp, graphic lines: austere wool coats and sleek black dresses opened the show, their simplicity evoking Bill Murray’s muted Tokyo nights. “The Virgin Suicides” whispered through sheer panties and lingerie-inspired pieces, their delicate floral appliqués and sheer fabrics suggesting adolescent fragility laced with quiet defiance. The finale belonged to “Marie Antoinette,” where oversized bows in sequined leather or plaid brocade erupted over necklines and hips, their playful extravagance mirrored in candy pink satins and lavender duchesse skirts.
The designer’s irreverent touch was evident in unexpected pairings. Feather-trimmed organza blouses peeked out under boxy corduroy pea coats; chunky knit cardigans offset sequined pencil skirts. “I wanted to have fun this time,” Dell’Acqua admitted backstage, shrugging off practical concerns about the collection’s “invasive bows.” His mood board, plastered with Kirsten Dunst movie stills, underscored Coppola’s influence, but the clothes felt distinctly his own-disheveled grace met precise tailoring.
Hourglass coats in felted wool and angled skirts with ruffled hems nodded to timeless femininity, while egg-shaped opera coats in lustrous satin introduced whimsy. A micro-rose embossed pink dress and leopard-print brocade tops balanced sweetness with edge. Dell’Acqua’s knack for contrast shone brightest in leather miniskirts tied with oversized bows, their audacity tempered by pastel tweed bustiers.
The result was a collection that defied categorization. Delicate yet bold, structured yet undone, Nº21 Fall/Winter 2025 invites women to embrace contradictions-much like Coppola’s heroines, who linger in the mind long after the credits roll.
©Photo: Nº21
