A vibrant ode to fashion’s ability to surprise, Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino Fall/Winter 2025 collection plays with meticulous tailoring and playful absurdity. From sofa pillow hats to handbags shaped like Pepperidge Farm Milano cookies, the show revelled in Franco Moschino‘s legacy of chaos turned chic. Appiolaza, now in his first year as Creative director, channels the house’s irreverent spirit while grounding it in modern urgency-climate consciousness and gender inclusivity linger beneath the surface of sequined clouds and garbage bag dresses.
The runway opened with unfinished tailoring – visible stitches, dangling threads, gold needles pinned to lapels – a nod to the raw artistry behind luxury. Models walked in sharply cut suits layered over turtlenecks that mimicked tailor’s dummies, their necklines emblazoned with the Moschino logo. The subtle branding echoed Franco’s 1992 “Mannequin” dress, a piece that reimagined the Stockman mannequin as a canvas for visual wit. Appiolaza’s update swapped black chiffon for cascading floral prints, inviting fans to reinterpret the look at home.
Humor flourished in accessories: globe-shaped clutches, spaghetti straps with tomato clasps and last season’s viral baguette bags found new life alongside celery-shaped totes. A garbage bag dress cheekily declared “C’est trash chic!” while polka dot LBDs dripped with jet bead raindrops. Even the venue leaned toward contrast – black carpets, showers of confetti, and a finale t-shirt urging “Don’t Be Silent.”
Beneath the spectacle lies an agenda. Appiolaza champions resourcefulness, collaging discarded fabrics into silk-and-jacquard dresses or reworking selvage wool into asymmetrical pantsuits. A sweater sagged with intentional holes to form a sly smiley face, its edges frayed but purposeful. These pieces whispered resilience, suggesting that luxury isn’t just opulence but ingenuity – a philosophy reflected in the designer’s Levi’s-inspired “In Love We Trust” waistbands.
©Photo: Moschino
