In a world dominated by fast fashion and transient trends, Molly Goddard‘s Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a breath of fresh air, embracing the artistry and craftsmanship that is often overlooked in contemporary fashion. The London-based designer, known for her voluminous tulle dresses and avant-garde aesthetic, took an innovative approach for her latest collection, showcased at the prestigious Christie’s auction house on King Street. Drawing inspiration from the intricacies of costume design and the nostalgia of domestic comfort, Goddard successfully created a collection that nudges the mechanics of garments to the surface and celebrates the pleasure in the process of making clothes.
The genesis of the collection can be traced back to Goddard’s visit to the National Theatre Costume Hire, where she meticulously examined the stitched clockwork of garments from various eras, ranging from Regency to contemporary. This exploration inspired her to turn garments inside out, exposing the geography of boning and corsetry, and revealing the patina of production. Long skirts were shirred at the hip to create a drape that cascaded down to edged froths of pale ruffled petticoats, contrasting with tailored jackets and loose corseted tops. A dusty pink woolen cardigan, reminiscent of an old granny blanket, was edged with a strip of satin, evoking a sense of comfort and domestic nostalgia.
The Spring/Summer 2024 collection effortlessly combines elements of the past with a modern twist. Washed-out red rose prints adorn skirts and are knitted into cardigans, while off-white quilted dresses are gridded with quilted beams. Checked denim pieces, traced in unfinished selvedge, add a contemporary edge to the collection. Goddard’s trademark tulle skirts are paired with sheer, corseted tops that expose the gentle geography of their construction. These design elements contribute to a sense of comfortable domestic nostalgia while showcasing Goddard’s innovative approach to garment construction.
What sets Molly Goddard apart from her contemporaries is her genuine passion for the process of making clothes. “What I enjoy most is when I get really stuck into how to make clothes; the techniques and the fabrics and the fit,” she explains. This pleasure in the process is evident in the masterful collection she has created. By exposing the mechanics of garments and celebrating the intricacies of their construction, Goddard invites us to appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship that goes into creating each piece.
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©Photo: Molly Goddard
