MM6 Maison Margiela‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection struck a captivating balance between sharp tailoring and playful subversion. Think sharply defined shoulders juxtaposed with tattered hems, and a cool hybrid of a peacoat and biker jacket.
The show exuded a distinct energy, amplified by clear protective goggles hinting at surgical precision, jackets and coats with dramatically hacked-off sleeves, and a pulsating techno soundtrack. Playful slogans like “Not what it is” and “Lost my pet” emblazoned on garments further added to the irreverent vibe.
While John Galliano‘s recent triumphant Artisanal couture show for Maison Margiela embraced theatricality, the MM6 design team stayed true to the brand’s Belgian roots. This was evident not just in the clothing, but also in the show’s setting: cloth-covered seating cubes, sheer curtains, and the unmistakable scent of patchouli all evoked the signature Margiela aesthetic.
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The collection offered nods to both classic and contemporary sensibilities. Sleek bodysuits and clinging jersey dresses channeled Margiela’s iconic sensuality for women, while men were treated to offbeat proposals like over-dyed denim raincoats and knee-length turtlenecks.
Accessories added a touch of whimsy, with collaborations like Dr. Martens loafers, fortune cookie-shaped leather handbags, and even leather-encased neck pillows.
The venue itself, a hushed and carpeted space bathed in soft light, defied expectations. This seemingly incongruous setting, however, was explained by backstage conversations.
Moodboard images referenced Martin Margiela’s time at Hermès, specifically the years 1997 to 2003. This era of minimalist chic and no-logo luxury resonated in the show’s atmosphere, creating a counterintuitive salon-like ambiance.
While MM6 Maison Margiela certainly isn’t venturing into couture territory anytime soon, an elevated feel permeated the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Elongated waistcoats and tunics with plunging necklines echoed Margiela’s iconic “vareuse” for Hermès, demonstrating the design team’s effort to introduce “a classy feel, and to look dressy with minimal effort.“
Abstract rectangular modules suspended from sharp shoulders and elongated silhouettes added a touch of avant-garde flair to tops, dresses, and tailored skirt suits. These shapes also playfully referenced the hotel room pillowcases the design team encountered on their work trips to Italy, a motif that further emphasized the collection’s focus on lived-in, real, and loved clothing.
“There’s no need for preposterous narratives,” the design team declared. Instead, the collection embraced an undercurrent of abstract softness, hinting at a newfound openness to subtle sensuality and unconventional elegance. Through their clever lens, MM6 proves that reality, even when deconstructed and reinterpreted, can be anything but banal.
Read more: Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024
©Photo: MM6 Maison Margiela
