Melitta Baumeister, the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner, presented her Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Manhattan, marking a significant milestone for the designer who debuted at New York Fashion Week a decade ago. This season, Baumeister explored the world of athletics, a fitting theme given her own steady rise in the industry.
The show opened with Paralympian Scout Bassett, a gold medalist in track and field, setting the tone for a collection interested in movement and speed. While Baumeister’s designs have often explored sculptural forms, this season saw those forms activated by the body in motion. Dresses rippled with every step, their fabric taking on a life of its own.
The influence of sportswear was evident throughout the collection. Exaggerated soccer shoulders were reimagined as rounded arches and sharp points, adding to Baumeister’s formal vocabulary. The designer also presented sleek tank dresses and separates, as well as bike shorts, perhaps a nod to her partner’s passion for cycling.
Baumeister’s signature sweatshirts were refreshed with hand-sprayed treatments, creating a worn and lived-in effect. The technique echoed the silkscreening applied to the brand’s popular denim pieces. While some looks, such as a striking biker-inspired ensemble, felt disconnected from the overarching theme, the collection as a whole showcased Baumeister’s keen eye for innovative design.
©Photo: Melitta Baumeister
