Alexander McQueen‘s Fall/Winter 2025 runway solidified creative director Seán McGirr’s evolving vision for the house, combining razor-sharp tailoring with a theatrical romanticism rooted in Victorian-era decadence. Presented in Paris against a mirrored portal backdrop, the collection tapped into a neo-dandy aesthetic while capitalizing on the brand’s recent cultural momentum, from Timothée Chalamet‘s viral skull scarf revival to Miley Cyrus‘ Oscars gown.
McGirr drew inspiration from Charles Dickens’ nocturnal wanderer archetype and Oscar Wilde’s subversive elegance, translating them into garments that blurred gender lines. Opening looks featured austere black jackets with pointed shoulders and corseted waists, paired with archival kickback trousers and exaggerated pointed boots. Ruffled lace collars spilled over structured coats, evoking Marianne Faithfull’s rock ‘n’ roll aristocracy, while cocked hats nodded to Wilde’s provocative flair.
Eveningwear took a flamboyant turn with sheer lace gowns accentuating bustier silhouettes and silk dresses in acidic hues like fuchsia and lavender. Standout pieces included shearling boleros with overdyed patches that resembled angel wings, a motif that gained movement as models traversed the elongated runway. McGirr described these textures as embodying “raw opulence,” a phrase that applies equally to gold-plated bombers and crystal-embellished parkas.
The designer acknowledged McQueen’s commercial realities, reintroducing the skull scarf as a green-and-white printed blouse and offering sleek leather bombers with punk-inspired buckles. This pragmatism follows a tripling of the scarf’s sales after Chalamet’s endorsement, proving that archival motifs still resonate with younger audiences.
Red carpet-ready moments abounded, from crystalline floral minidresses to cable-knit crinolines – likely fodder for future awards seasons. McGirr’s third collection showed a sharper focus than his debut, though traces of last season’s disruptive energy lingered in details like bedazzled face jewelry and asymmetrical mirrored portals.
©Photo: McQueen