Francesco Risso, Marni’s creative director, recently showcased the brand’s second “touring show” in Tokyo. The presentation took place in a gymnasium designed by Kenzo Tange for the 1964 Olympics, which was significant for both the brand and the designer. Japan represents a significant portion of Marni’s sales, and the location provided a welcome sense of refreshment and calmness after the fast-paced environment of New York and Europe.
For the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Risso showcased the trademark quirkiness of Marni with a range of bold colors, graphics, and playful silhouettes. From form-fitting to dramatic and rounded, the designs included oversized tailoring on blazers and coats, as well as knitwear staples such as puffed mohair sweaters, duvet-like coats, billowing pants, and delicate dresses.
Polka dots, reminiscent of Yayoi Kusama’s work, and simple grid patterns played a significant role in the collection. Square-shouldered dresses and sharp-cut coats were paired with relaxed puffers and rounded tops, creating a harmonious balance between rigor and creativity. Risso said that the collection was about rewiring Marni’s classics and giving them the most love possible, resulting in a symphony of design elements that conveyed emotion through form and function.