Loewe‘s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection, presented by Creative director Jonathan Anderson, was a departure from the brand’s usual flamboyant presentations. Stepping into the vast, seemingly empty show space, the atmosphere was one of quiet anticipation. Security guards encircled tiny black metal sculptures of mice on the floor, a playful yet enigmatic touch. A copy of Susan Sontag’s “Against Interpretation” lay splayed on the hardwood, hinting at a desire to move beyond surface interpretations and delve deeper.
The collection itself mirrored this introspective mood. Parading to the mournful strains of William Basinski’s “Disintegration Loops,” the garments showcased a deliberate exercise in restraint. Key looks, like a slim black suit, were repeated throughout, creating a sense of focused repetition that echoed the yearning wall of sound in the music.
Yet, Anderson, a designer known for his daring and multifaceted approach, couldn’t resist injecting moments of subversion. Long pheasant feathers, often gilded, were attached to headbands, bifurcating or obscuring the faces of the young models. Many models went shirtless, their bare torsos contrasting with billowing, draped pants and the prominent leather jacrons positioned on the front. Cap-toed dress shoes, a touch too long, added a further layer of unexpectedness.
The collection juxtaposed seemingly disparate elements. Checkered shorts and taut polo shirts conjured a carefree suburban picnic circa 1955, while a biker jacket with the scooped neckline of a cocktail dress hinted at a more edgy destination.
Despite the initial sense of restraint, the collection’s emotional impact was undeniable. Anderson’s masterful hand was evident in the lightness and practicality of the spongey silk mohair tailoring, and in the cleverly cut sleeves of short jackets that sagged perfectly when hands were stuffed into pockets. Subtle nods to English schoolboys and military dress emerged in Oxford bag trousers and roomy khaki coats with folded lapels.
Read more: JW Anderson Spring/Summer 2025 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Loewe
