Peter Copping’s return to Lanvin has been met with enthusiastic applause and signals a new energy for the iconic fashion house. After a period of uncertainty following the departure of Alber Elbaz, Copping’s debut collection for Fall/Winter 2025 brings a new relevance deeply rooted in Jeanne Lanvin’s rich legacy from the 1920s and ’30s.
“This collection is deeply personal – an homage to the world of Jeanne Lanvin and her intimate sense of style. I’ve tried to project the essence of her wardrobe today, while imagining it on a cast of modern characters – which I hope you’ll enjoy discovering,” said Peter Copping, Artistic director of Lanvin.
Copping delves into the archives and draws inspiration from Lanvin’s signature designs. The culmination is seen in the shimmering cascades of gold on black lace, reminiscent of antique fabrics yet with a modern allure. A standout piece is a gold metallic lurex dress with a full, petal-like skirt, a contemporary take on Jeanne Lanvin’s iconic robe de style silhouette, infused with Copping’s magical touch.
The collection showcases Copping’s talent as an exceptional dress designer, a vital attribute for a house celebrated for its soft designs. His creations range from couture-like spiral ribbon dresses to fluidly tailored coat dresses. The capes, a Lanvin hallmark, make a notable appearance in the form of a shoulder-length black velvet piece embellished with intricate silver studs, layered over a sheer blouse and paired with trousers.
Menswear also takes a prominent place in the collection. Copping introduces graphic patterns inspired by the Art Deco era and explores the archive of glittering embroidery patterns. A silver mirror-embroidered long-sleeved t-shirt stands out as an exceptional eveningwear option for men, highlighting his innovative approach.
The collection reflects Lanvin’s core values of elegance and craftsmanship, and remains true to Jeanne Lanvin’s vision of style, which encompassed all aspects of life. The emblematic shade of blue, associated with the sea and the air, is reinterpreted to symbolize the passage of time and the Maison’s enduring legacy as the oldest continuously operating Parisian couture house since 1889.
Jeanne Lanvin’s influence permeates the collection, from the sharp, elongated silhouettes inspired by illustrations to the literal incorporation of her initials “J” and “L” into the cuts of garments and accessories. Motifs from her own home are transformed into new emblems, bridging past and present.
Couture gestures link history to the present moment, with flowing drapery and embroidery translated into modern t-shirts and sweaters. Classic Parisian garments like peacoats and trench coats are reimagined with new volumes and satin details, embodying a couture sensibility that emphasizes preciousness and craftsmanship.
Despite some production choices that make certain pieces less visible, such as showing garments against a black background, the collection offers substantial daywear designs. Coats such as the soft, flowing trench and the black leather coat with a dropped waist belt, a nod to 1920s driving coats, demonstrate Copping’s versatility and deep understanding of the Lanvin aesthetic.
With 64 looks, including many for men, there is a wealth of ideas and a clear affection for the house. The audience’s enthusiastic response, full of smiles and applause, reflects the excitement surrounding Lanvin’s new direction under Peter Copping’s artistic vision.
©Photo: Lanvin
