Kenzo‘s Spring/Summer 2025 runway, set amidst a golden sand circuit encircling the Palais Royal fountain, marked a milestone for Artistic director Nigo. In his sixth show for the house, Nigo unveiled a collection that seamlessly blended his signature menswear with a burgeoning womenswear line, drawing inspiration from the vibrant hues of origami paper and the lush foliage of the jungle.
The menswear opened with a striking bamboo camouflage pattern, gracing roomy trenches, tropical blazers, and breaky pants. Pajama suits layered under billowy duster coats, paired with double-brim baseball caps and “tuned-up” zori sandals, showcased Nigo‘s knack for elevating everyday attire. Mesh hoodies, embroidered satin bombers, and taped trousers inspired by Japanese scaffolders’ pants added an edge to the collection.
As the show transitioned to womenswear, the bamboo camouflage blossomed into florals, while netting morphed into atomic flower crochet dresses and tops. Fringe cascaded from floral scarf-skirts and dresses, and origami-inspired folded-edge wrap mini-dresses in cream and maroon stole the spotlight.
Nigo’s fascination with origami, sparked by a cache of nearly fluorescent paper discovered in a 300-year-old Tokyo stationery shop, infused the collection with a kaleidoscope of colors. The designer’s aim to reclaim Kenzo’s jungle roots was evident in the bamboo prints and newfangled tiger emblems, a nod to founder Kenzo Takada’s first Paris shop, Jungle Jap.
Collaborations with graphic designer Verdy yielded a fresh Kenzo Paris logo and a playful tiger emblem that straddled the line between graffiti and cartoon. These motifs adorned varsity jackets, blousons, and even a plush toy-turned-backpack, injecting a dose of whimsy into the collection.
While the open-air setting in the Palais Royal garden complemented the outsized florals and bamboo motifs, Nigo’s staging left room for growth. The pacing of the show, with models trudging slowly over golden sand to drill music, failed to match the collection’s vibrant energy.
Nevertheless, Nigo’s exacting attention to detail and commitment to quality shone through in pieces like the colorful, platform zori sandals crafted by a renowned Kyoto workshop. As the Artistic director continues to refine his vision for Kenzo, his Spring/Summer 2025 collection marks a promising step forward, weaving together the house’s heritage with Nigo’s own sartorial sensibilities.
Read more: Kenzo’s Pre-Fall 2024 campaign: A celestial journey between East and West
©Photo: Kenzo
