The grand, book-laden halls of Paris’ Bibliothèque Nationale were more than just a convenient setting for Kenzo‘s Fall/Winter 2024 show. As Nigo himself explained, this collection was about bridging cultures, weaving threads from East and West into a tapestry of fresh, eye-catching fashion. Under a vaulted roof adorned with names like Babylon and Vienna, Kenzo embarked on a journey beyond its usual Paris-Tokyo orbit.
Tatami mats morphed into graphic checks on coats, while swirling karakusa, an ancient pattern with hints of China and Egypt, blossomed into floral prints. Expedition-ready shearling gloves, aviator jackets and cinched jerkins mingled with deconstructed denim, suggesting adventures across continents. Oversized robe-like coats, some with acid-washed finishes and open armholes, added a touch of ’80s whimsy. A knit cardigan emblazoned with a swirling star system reinforced the sense of traveling beyond earthly boundaries.
Nigo also delved into personal memories. School uniform-inspired blazers, reminiscent of his own student days, were elegantly draped and adorned with a chain of Kenzo-themed buttons. They echoed the spirit of Pharrell Williams‘ Pont Neuf jacket, but struck their own chord. Duffle coats, those faithful companions of seafaring souls, appeared in woven tatami jacquard, bridging land and sea.
Nigo’s womenswear at Kenzo continues to evolve, embracing femininity while retaining his signature touch. Ribbed mini dresses cinched with wide leather belts exuded confidence, while tatami printed sweetheart necklines offered a playful nod to tradition. Chunky metal necklines that resembled deconstructed versions of Mike Oldfield’s “Tubular Bells” album cover added a touch of avant-garde drama.
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Padded chest pieces reminiscent of Japanese protective gear evoked memories of Craig Green‘s London collections, blending East and West with subtle finesse. Letterman jackets emblazoned with Kenzo iconography added a dash of Americana, while layering chest rigs over sleek black tailoring propelled the collection into galactic realms, X-wing pilots ready to take flight.
This Fall/Winter 2024 collection marked Nigo’s most assured and complex work for Kenzo to date. It was a confident journey through galaxies of style, fueled by memories, cultural encounters and a boundless sense of creative freedom. With each step, Kenzo’s identity was transformed, becoming richer, more complex and utterly compelling.
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©Photo: Kenzo
