Jason Wu’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented against the backdrop of a sunny Hudson Yards garden, marks a turning point for the designer. Echoing a growing sentiment within the fashion world, Wu has announced his move to presenting just one collection a year, a decision that underscores his commitment to creating work that is both culturally meaningful and lasting.
This season, Wu found his inspiration in the captivating artistry of 82-year-old Taiwanese calligrapher Tong Yang-Tze, who is set to make history in November as the first Asian artist to be featured in The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Great Hall Commission. Wu, who himself learned calligraphy as a child, was drawn to the airy, graphic nature of Tong’s large-scale works, and the way they capture the essence of fleeting movement in permanent form.
The influence of Tong’s calligraphy is evident throughout the collection. Wu translates the artist’s inky strokes onto garments like raw-edged sportswear, silkscreen printed and left deliberately wrinkled, as seen in a standout denim jacket and a striking trench coat. This exploration of texture continues in shimmering, crinkled jacquard separates and custom satin gowns, pieces that evoke the feeling of canvases that have been crumpled and unfolded over time.
Wu’s fascination with “the imperfections of it all” is further emphasized through deconstructed elements, such as laser-cut holes resembling ink droplets, and the use of inky woven streaks on delicate fil coupe. The collection culminates in a series of ethereal white gowns, their flowing silhouettes embodying the sense of movement that so captivated Wu in Tong’s work.
This season sees Wu continue his exploration of tailoring, daywear, and knitwear, with pieces that embrace a sense of refined imperfection. Pleating and distressing, elements introduced in previous collections, reappear alongside nods to designers like Yohji Yamamoto. A standout element is the unexpected inclusion of menswear, a nod to Wu’s time at Hugo Boss, and a collaboration on footwear with Sergio Rossi.
Throughout the collection, Wu masterfully juxtaposes structured tailoring with delicate fabrics, creating pieces that are both powerful and feminine. Chiffon peeks out from the hems of robin’s egg blue shorts suits, while trench coat hybrids feature flowing panels that undulate with every step. Geometric cutouts and folds add an element of playful asymmetry, while the strategic use of corsetry provides structure to diaphanous gowns.
©Photo: Jason Wu
