Jacquemus took a new direction at Paris Fashion Week Men’s, presenting his Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the intimate setting of architect Auguste Perret’s private apartment. In a departure from his signature grand spectacles, Simon Porte Jacquemus invited only 40 guests to experience his latest creations in this Art Deco gem of oak paneling and concrete columns.
The setting evoked the elegance of a bygone era and provided an exquisite backdrop that highlighted the sophistication of the collection. Celebrities including Pamela Anderson, K-pop star Hongjoong and former French First Lady Carla Bruni mingled in the living room, where a statue of Aristide Maillol stood guard. Carla Bruni dazzled in a black off-the-shoulder gown with a fishtail train, her dark sunglasses adding an air of mystery.
Simon Porte Jacquemus was inspired by the stories of French couturiers like Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, who conquered America in the 1950s. He imagined how his own brand might have appeared in that era, and infused the Spring/Summer 2025 collection with a blend of classic elegance and contemporary flair. “I wanted a very intimate moment, almost like a salon gathering,” he reflected after the show. “Watching old couture presentations, I felt compelled to present my silhouettes without artifice.”
The decision to scale down allowed craftsmanship to take center stage. “Because Jacquemus shows are always held in beautiful locations, sometimes the collection could disappear,” he admitted. This time, the focus remained on the garments and their intricate details.
A parade of veteran models underscored the show’s gravitas. Christy Turlington looked serene in a cinched black peacoat paired with a drop-waist skirt. Liya Kebede, Doutzen Kroes and Irina Shayk also graced the runway, each bringing their own poise to the presentation. Eva Herzigova turned heads in a white poplin windbreaker with a cocoon back, paired with sculpturally curved pants.
The collection showcased Jacquemus’ affinity for geometric shapes. Tabard tops, circular skirts and hourglass dresses paid homage to icons such as Marilyn Monroe. A pale yellow dress evoked the grace of Grace Kelly in “To Catch a Thief,” with a conical bra silhouette subtly visible beneath a superfine knit top. Sensuality was evident in slinky black jersey dresses worn by Adriana Lima and front-row guest Tyla.
Menswear took on an Americana theme with tailored denim, preppy blazers and variations on workwear jackets. Models sported oversized belts, adding a distinctive twist to classic silhouettes. Three white suits, one paired with a sweeping polka-dot coat, hinted at red-carpet aspirations.
The shift in presentation signaled Jacquemus’ desire to evolve his brand. After celebrating its 15th anniversary last year, he seemed ready to solidify its place in fashion history. “I’m really happy because we pushed the atelier so much with this collection,” he said, noting that a feather dress resembling a powder puff was created with the expertise of Lemarié, a specialist workshop owned by Chanel.
Expansion plans were also on the horizon. With a recently opened store in New York City and another planned for Los Angeles, Jacquemus was considering the brand’s growth in the American market. “I was thinking about opening my stores in New York and L.A. and about how Coco and Christian went to America,” he explained. His reflections on this transatlantic journey influenced the collection’s aesthetic.
©Photo: Jacquemus
