Sabato de Sarno returned to Milan’s La Triennale for his Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 show, hoping to recapture the joyful energy of his June menswear show. Inspired by a sun-drenched August vacation and the enduring style of Jackie Kennedy Onassis, the collection offered a fresh perspective on Gucci‘s heritage. de Sarno’s muse, Jackie O, a longtime client of the brand, embodied a “casual grandeur” that resonated with the designer’s vision for the collection.
The show unfolded against a backdrop reminiscent of a sunset, with hues shifting from warm yellows to vibrant Ancora reds, a color de Sarno has championed since his arrival. While the opening look of a wool bomber and slouchy trousers hinted at a more relaxed aesthetic, the collection soon revealed its connection to Jackie O’s iconic style. Archival print headscarves and oversized sunglasses, reminiscent of Jackie’s Capri days, added a touch of vintage glamour. Woven raffia coats in vibrant green, printed seaside separates and wide-brimmed sun hats evoked the jet-set style of the 1960s, inspired by an image of Queen Elizabeth II in Gucci.
Eveningwear took the form of shimmering sequined gowns, while interpretations of Tom Ford’s iconic white jersey dresses from his Fall/Winter 1996 collection appeared in rich jewel tones with gold bamboo accents. The Gucci Bamboo bag, celebrating its 60th anniversary, took center stage with vintage versions customized by Japanese artists and a new iteration featuring a horsebit detail. The horsebit motif was also featured on sleek boots and a reimagined bucket bag.
de Sarno closed the show with a series of oversized coats paired with tanks and jeans, capturing a sense of effortless cool that felt like a breakthrough for the designer. The collection, with its focus on wearable separates, luxurious materials and nods to Gucci’s archives, suggests that de Sarno is finding his footing within the house.
©Photo: Gucci
