Belgian designer Glenn Martens has officially been named Creative director of Maison Margiela, succeeding John Galliano after a decade in the role. The appointment, confirmed by parent company OTB Group, places Martens, known for his revitalization of Diesel and his remarkable eleven-year tenure at Y/Project, at the forefront of Margiela’s next chapter. Known for deconstructed silhouettes and technical mastery, his approach aligns with the house’s legacy of subversion.
“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent and I know what he is capable of,” said OTB chairman Renzo Rosso, underscoring the designer’s potential to redefine Margiela’s codes. Martens succeeds John Galliano, whose theatrical haute couture shows and narrative-driven collections raised the brand’s global profile. While no debut date has been set, expectations lean toward Martens’ experimental craftsmanship, honed at the Royal Academy of Antwerp and refined under Jean Paul Gaultier (he caught Gaultier’s eye with his graduation collection, which led to his first professional role).
Martens will also retain his role at Diesel, signaling OTB’s confidence in his dual leadership. This balance reflects Margiela’s own duality – its artisanal roots and commercial evolution. Stefano Rosso, Margiela’s chairman, noted that the timing was “a key moment of its history,” emphasizing Martens’ mission to honor tradition while breaking new ground.
The designer’s affinity for reinvention can be traced back to Y/Project, where his twisted tailoring and iconic denim garnered acclaim. Though the brand recently closed due to financial difficulties, Martens’ reputation remains intact. His Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier – a return to his early mentor – showcased his ability to blend technical precision with conceptual flair, a skill Margiela demands.
Martens is humbled by the challenge. “Extremely honored to join the amazing Maison Margiela,” he said, pledging to build on its legacy. Industry watchers are eager to see how his architectural sensibilities will translate to Margiela’s enigmatic identity, particularly its Artisanal line.
Galliano leaves big shoes to fill, having transformed Margiela into a couture powerhouse. But Martens’ Antwerp pedigree and knack for hybridizing streetwear with high fashion suggest a fresh, if unpredictable, trajectory. His appointment signals OTB’s broader strategy to increase the creative clout of its portfolio without diluting individuality.
“After Martin, who gave life to the maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John [Galliano], who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture,” Rosso said.