For Fall/Winter 2021, GCDS – by creative director Giuliano Calza – takes a trip down an edible-infused rabbit hole. Starting with an idea of mind-altering candies (and, in fact, partnering with the Italian confectionery Leone), Calza’s exploration of mood, vibe, euphoric highs and come-down lows arrives through a tactile and varied lineup, along with a short film accompanying it directed by Albert Moya (known for his pure, raw sense of emotion) and with photography direction by Dani Fernández Abello (who has won numerous accolades for his work with FKA Twigs, A$AP Rocky, and more).
The result is an ASMR-fueled symphony – starring Maisie Williams, opened by Rina Lipa and closed by Lara Mullen – highlighted by fabric movement, external sounds like a sandstorm and rain, and a whispering voice over.
Ultimately, Calza found himself reflecting deeply on what it means to be alive in this moment, in February of 2021. The designer has adjusted his process to capture something more personal and internalized, tapping into our shifting understandings of self, of culture, and of style under the compression of today’s challenges. We’re all feeling the pressure; we all need an escape (and even if that escape is fraught with challenges or anxiety, it matters, because we now live in a world where constant learning and adaptation is essential).
Tasting the highs, in this case through hue and sparkle and dashes of optimism, is akin to that first hit of candy.
This new GCDS complex features both womenswear and menswear, with an expansive array on offer that centers around plush, rich materials and a more grown-up approach.
Body-conscious dresses hold cutouts and chain details; tinsel flashes from another frock and glitter glints on blazers, like lights reflected in your eyes at moments of peak elation.
A more serious, brooding element complements the ebullience; all-black pieces, including tank-tops, trousers and utility jackets, add a shadow-slick offset. In between, layers of saffron and icy pink – along with pops of Pop (like logomania earrings, our eye catching Resina Moon Bag, faux-fur clogs, faux-fur yellow boots and Looney Tunes character embroideries) – lend heady intrigue. Icon-woven knitwear is threaded throughout, signaling this GCDS excursion. The trip, in the end, takes you across and in between all of these mindsets; it is a symphony of emotion, of jolts of color and swaths of shading, of crystals and textures and dynamism found somewhere between reality and a dream.
“Right now, every trip counts”, says Calza. ‘’Every perception, every reaction. Dark times lead to good times, and we must recognize every piece of this forward motion. We must learn from it, and we must allow our new selves to be reborn’’.
Two key partnerships are included in Fall/Winter 2021: Moon Boot and Alcantara. Moon Boot’s iconic shape has been reworked in faux-shearling, with GCDS logos appearing on the bias. Alcantara is a special luxury material that is Made in Italy; its carbon-neutral composition is sustainably made and notably soft in texture, and is used across multiple industries. Calza has worked this material, which is also breathable, lightweight and low-maintenance, into tracksuits, jackets and dresses.