Stepping into Gabriela Hearst‘s Fall/Winter 2024 show was like diving into a wonderland. Surrealist food sculptures greeted guests, hinting at the inspiration behind the collection: the captivating Leonora Carrington, a British artist and feminist icon. Just like Carrington’s works, Hearst’s designs blurred the lines between reality and fantasy, offering a richly textured and empowering vision for the modern woman.
Hearst, fresh off departing her role as creative director at Chloé, presented a collection that reaffirmed her signature style. Luxurious materials like shearling, cashmere, and napa leather took center stage, with innovative techniques like hand-pleating and mixed fabrications adding depth and interest. Sustainability remained a core value, with recycled cotton and hemp replacing traditional denim in a quilted duster coat, a nod to her brand’s early days.
Scarlet hues provided a pop of color, seen in a matching fringe dress and scarf set and plush velvet boots. This trend, according to Hearst, is showing no signs of fading. Meanwhile, the “Carrington” bag, a sleek box silhouette in various shades like oxblood, served as a subtle tribute to the collection’s muse. Leonora Carrington’s feminist spirit resonated throughout, evident in the powerful combination of comfort and elegance – merino knit waists with lace panels on slipdresses and cozy cashmere shirts and flared pants adorned with Hearst’s signature swirl lace.
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Hearst’s mastery of mixing materials shone through in hybrid pieces like the chic black cashmere knit and ivory shearling coat with a back corset detail. Bold metallics also made a statement in a gold napa and bias-cut silk dress, showcasing a “modernist gold” aesthetic. Surrealist touches peeked through in unexpected places, like the “fur” coats made from woven cashmere sheared to create a realistic illusion.
While the collection garnered praise for its luxurious textures and commitment to sustainability, some fashion critics yearned for a bolder exploration of Carrington’s surrealism. The magic realism and dreamlike imagery of her paintings seemed to hold untapped potential, leaving some with the desire to see Hearst “let it rip” in future collections.
Read more: Gabriela Hearst Men’s Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Gabriela Hearst
