Maximilian Davis, four shows into his tenure at Ferragamo, continues to shape the ready-to-wear identity of the Italian luxury brand. For Fall/Winter 2024, he draws inspiration from the house’s founding decade, the 1920s, a time he describes as “celebrating freedom.”
The collection opens with a series of olive green looks in wool-cashmere, featuring cropped greatcoats with wide quilted belts, creating a minimally military feel. As the show progresses, russet and brown hues emerge, along with thigh-high wader boots for women and short shorts for men, hinting at a bolder direction.
A key tension emerges between the collection’s contrasting elements: the structured outerwear and the sheer, sometimes deconstructed pieces like fringed skirts. This interplay between the provocative and the polite is a defining feature of the collection.
The signature Ferragamo red makes its appearance in a split loop-hem dress and a tailored safari suit. Davis also revisits his opening uniform silhouettes, deconstructing them into belted cloaks. Belting remains a recurring motif, appearing on a long mustard-toned organza dress and throughout the menswear suiting.
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Standout pieces include a green knit dress with a self-belting detail, a belted green parka with a Tetris-like pattern, and a stunning aubergine silk satin dress. In the menswear section, tailored double-breasted outerwear hybrids with unconventional collars offer a unique twist, while a black knit sweater and a sequined yellow dress feature intriguing aquatic life sketches.
The show’s lighting, focused on the models’ runway path, subtly overshadows the footwear, highlighting the ready-to-wear and the fleur-de-lis Gancini bags. Davis, striving to “reenergize” Ferragamo and understand the needs of younger customers, has undoubtedly brought fresh energy to the brand. While commercial success may still be a work in progress, this collection suggests a promising future for Ferragamo under Davis’s vision.
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©Photo: Ferragamo