Etro Pre-Fall 2025 is a bold move towards blending a rich history with a new perspective. As Creative director, Marco de Vincenzo skillfully balances Etro‘s rich heritage with his own modern sensibilities. This season, he strikes a balance, combining the brand’s famous textile flair with sleek silhouettes and a streamlined approach to layering.
Over the past two years, de Vincenzo has tried out different approaches. He’s either let Etro’s legacy guide him or let his own style take the lead. Now, he’s put together a collection that brings together both, and he calls it “maximalist minimalism.” The complexity of Etro’s codes, which once confused him, have been simplified into a more accessible narrative that doesn’t overwhelm.
The collection uses a tonal approach to patterns, featuring shapes that are easy to read and designed for everyday wear. The urban pragmatism and Etro’s bohemian nature blend together seamlessly. There are coats and suede dresses with subtle paisley patterns, and the leather stitching gives them a fitted look. Printed frilled blouses and chunky sweaters look great with flared pants, and denim ensembles and stretchy velvet tops are decorated with brocade patterns. The monochrome separates are delicately printed or embroidered with flowers, and they have a sophisticated 1970s feel.
de Vincenzo has kept Etro’s longtime devotees in mind, too. They appreciate the brand’s romantic side, and this collection has a youthful energy that’s palpable. The billowing long dresses in georgette give a nod to tradition, but they’ve been reinterpreted in jersey for comfort and practicality. The goal is to make the collection inclusive of all generations, so it appeals to a wide audience without losing its core essence.
Accessories are a big highlight this season. de Vincenzo brings his experience from Fendi to the table to give Etro’s handbags a boost. Designs like the Vela bag show how the brand is shaking things up with accessories, adding some serious cred and depth to the collection.
It’s a fine line between appealing to the market and staying true to your artistic vision when it comes to pre-fall collections. Designers often have to figure out how to broaden their consumer base without compromising their vision. In today’s uncertain luxury market, this challenge is even more pronounced. de Vincenzo knows this all too well. He said that the limits have made him think in new ways and learn to adapt.
He’s more into graphic, kinetic maximalism than flowing bohemian styles, so it’s been a bit of a challenge to align with Etro’s legacy. However, this season is a turning point. Etro’s signature billowy silhouettes have been reimagined in stretchy silk jersey, giving them a younger, sleeker look. There are some lighter, more sparse floral prints in this collection compared to previous designs.
You’ll see that there’s a focus on the waistline in coats, blazers, and minidresses, where handmade leather lace-up details shape the silhouette. A slim cashmere coat in a caramel paisley print shows how this technique works. It combines traditional patterns with modern tailoring.
One piece that really stands out is a camel straight-cut coat with chunky sides and sleeves knitted in vivid abstract patterns. This design shows how he’s trying to simplify and find a minimalist spirit within Etro. He’s merging reductionist attitudes with a touch of artisan wanderlust.
The inclusion of a few men’s looks alongside the women’s collection shows that this style resonates with the label’s traditional clientele. de Vincenzo isn’t trying to make a radical transformation, but he is guiding an evolution that respects Etro’s roots while embracing the future.
©Photo: Etro