Erdem’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, unveiled at the British Museum, marks a poignant departure for designer Erdem Moralıoğlu as he collaborates with contemporary painter Kaye Donachie, fusing ethereal artistry with couture craftsmanship. Known for drawing inspiration from historical figures, Moralioglu shifts his focus to a living muse, interweaving Donachie’s abstract portraits and floral motifs with luxurious fabrics and innovative techniques.
Moralıoğlu’s previous collections have celebrated women such as Maria Callas and Radclyffe Hall, but this season’s work centers on a deeply personal tribute: a portrait of his late mother, Marlene, painted by Donachie a decade ago. The emotional core of the collection manifests itself in fluid organza gowns, raw-edged silks and cocoon coats adorned with Donachie’s ghostly brushstrokes. Translucent layers evoke watercolor washes, while 3D blooms in leather and chiffon add tactile depth.
Donachie’s blurred florals and soft-edged female figures appear throughout the line, from sequined coats that shimmer like sea creatures to handbags with brass tulip handles. The partnership thrives on a shared sensibility-both artists reimagine archival material with fictionalized elegance. “Her portraits feel like ghosts,” said Erdem Moralıoğlu, emphasizing the balance between abstraction and emotion.
Technical mastery shines in hand-dyed organza, wool-embroidered leather, and neoprene coats scaled to near-abstract proportions. Burgundy stitches on pink knits and white flowers on dark leather reflect romantic nostalgia, while PJ Harvey’s haunting vocals underscore the show’s intimate narrative.
©Photo: Erdem
