David Koma, the London-based designer known for his glamorous and audacious pieces, is embarking on a new chapter. Having reached the impressive milestone of 15 years with his namesake label, Koma is experiencing a shift in his creative focus. While acknowledging the immense pride in his achievements, he expresses a desire to prioritize joy and rediscover the uninhibited creativity that fueled him as a young graduate from Central Saint Martins. This yearning for artistic freedom manifests beautifully in his Resort 2025 (Cruise 2025) collection, one of his most elaborate creations to date.
The collection’s genesis lies in an online discovery: a 3D-printed sculpture by artist Isabelle Albuquerque. This intriguing piece, depicting the artist’s form meticulously rendered in deer skin, sparked Koma’s imagination. “There was a mystery to the work,” he explains, “It made me think about the ancient Greek idea of metamorphosis.” This fascination with transformation translates into a collection that exudes a sensual playfulness.
Koma masterfully translates the otherworldly into the physical with a series of fawn-spotted swimsuits, bodycon dresses, and capes. These pieces evoke a sense of primal desire, hinting at fantastical creatures emerging from the wilderness. Leather, a signature Koma material, takes on a new form as it’s reimagined into striking belt skirts. Fluid jersey gowns are adorned with crystallized embellishments that resemble talons, adding a touch of untamed allure.
David Koma reimagines fur with glossy raffia, creating an “aqueous pelt” on a nude-sequined skirt. This luxurious fabrication evokes the sleek mane of an Akhal-Teke horse, a visual echo of the collection’s thematic core. The raffia reappears in voluminous beach bags and statement coats, adding a touch of the unexpected and the extravagant.
One caveat: the sheer volume and weight of some pieces might require a touch of Herculean strength to truly carry them off. But for those who embrace the drama and the artistry, the David Koma Resort 2025 collection offers a chance to embody a powerful and sensual metamorphosis.
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Read more: David Koma Spring/Summer 2025 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: David Koma