COS has been moving around. Athens, Rome. New York for four seasons in a row. On March 25th, the brand landed in Seoul for the first time, presenting the COS Spring 2026 collection off-schedule in the South Korean capital. This time, the city felt less like a strategic pin on a map and more like a genuine fit.
South Korea is one of COS’s biggest markets, and its largest flagship store is located in Cheongdam. There was logic to this, even if the venue itself defied it. Instead of staging the show somewhere central and obvious, COS went to a Brutalist-inspired space on the edge of the city where empty pools were transformed into a surreal architectural backdrop. Models appeared through a soft haze and walked along a platform flanked by structural columns. The soundtrack was the pre-recorded roar of the Seoul subway playing over the speakers. The city came inside.
The setting mattered because it was authentic. COS doesn’t do maximalism. The brand has built its identity on restraint, clean cuts, precise tailoring, and a refusal to shout. A stripped-down concrete pool on the outskirts of Seoul suited that sensibility far better than a ballroom would have.
Forty looks were presented, covering both men’s and women’s clothing. The color palette featured slate greys, warm browns, creams, and whites, accented by blue and deep oxblood red for depth and richness. Tonally, the collection held together well. Nothing clashed. Nothing competed.
The references were clear. Design director Karin Gustafsson, who has been with the brand since its founding in 2006, spoke about using American Gigolo as inspiration for the season, and it showed. A mix of ’80s and ’90s references ran throughout the 40-look collection, from billowy suiting to sleek bodycon dresses and skirts made of sheer knit fabrics. The power tailoring featured structured shoulders, but was carefully handled, softened by shawl lapels and balanced with fluidity. Nothing felt costume-like.
| 📌 Key Facts |
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| 🏙️ COS staged its first Seoul runway for Spring 2026 📍 Location in a brutalist former swimming pool outside the city 🎨 Palette built on greys, browns, creams with subtle accents 🧵 Strong focus on tailoring, fluid silhouettes, and tonal balance 🎞️ Inspiration drawn from 80s and 90s aesthetics including American Gigolo 🪶 Materials include silk, leather, technical fabrics, and trompe l’oeil denim 👟 Accessories remain understated and aligned with the collection 🌏 Seoul confirmed as a key market and cultural fit for COS |
The materials work carried the collection. Leather and technical textiles had a subtle sheen. Paper-like surfaces introduced a crinkled quality. Ethereal transparency offered subtle glimpses of the body in motion while exaggerated cuts and airy fabrics floated effortlessly. Trompe l’oeil denim, executed in silk, was one of those subtle COS touches that rewards closer inspection. Silk reappeared throughout the collection in various forms: pleated, asymmetrically draped, and cut into a signature shirt that managed to feel both sharp and relaxed.
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The references in the menswear were similarly considered. Suede introduced a subtle sense of luxury. Mid-season outerwear felt modern without trying too hard. Tone-on-tone ’80s-inspired sets were offered with enough restraint to appear contemporary rather than theatrical.
Soft leather sneakers, architectural mule heels, leather bags in coordinating colors, and suede sandals completed the picture without overwhelming it. The sandals exuded a very specific kind of confident ease.
Alexander Skarsgård and Park Gyuyoung, who both star in the Spring 2026 campaign, sat in the front row alongside Emma Roberts. While the celebrity presence was notable, the clothes didn’t need it.
