For her first physical Haute Couture show in 18 months, Maria Grazia Chiuri came home to Paris, just weeks after presenting Dior’s Cruise 2022 collection in Greece.
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Inspired by Claire Hunter’s book “Threads of Life: A History of the World Through the Eye of the Needle”, the collection celebrated the tactility and the indispensable value of weaving and of embroidery, two crafts that Chiuri holds dear. She commissioned French artist Eva Jospin to create monumental embroidered panels, weaved by Chanakyua School of Craft, an Indian institution that supports women’s financial empowerment through traditional craftsmanship, as the backdrop for the show held in the garden of the Musée Rodin.
The inspiration was a 1963 Christian Dior Haute Couture collection by Marc Bohan featuring tweed jackets and skirts with coordinating scarves and helmet hats. There was a lot of tweed in her show. Tweed ensembles, from jackets to hats resembling horse riding helmets, took the stage in a patchwork of muted tones. There was also Chiuri’s modernization of the Bar suit, with nipped-in waists and full skirts, alongside flowing gowns and tailored separates. For evening looks, there were long skirts embroidered with feathers and sheer pleated long dresses in silk gauze.
“In embroidery, women work together around the table to stitch together and speak together. It’s community work, the same as in the atelier for haute couture. Especially now, that can give us a sense of solidarity”, Chiuri said to WWD. “Couture is not only Avenue Montaigne, couture is around the world where there is knowledge to realize beautiful craft”, she continued to argue.
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