Riccardo Tisci has titled his Burberry’s Fall/Winter 2021 womenswear collection, simply “Femininity”. The inspiration? His mother and the power of feminine energy. A collection dedicated to all women.
Tisci’s messaging was clear: Before the show, he screened a short documentary by filmmaker Marc Isaacs highlighting a variety of women talking about power, femininity and their hopes for the future.
“Throughout my life, my mother has been this incredible force of nature. As a single parent, she raised me and my eight sisters with unfaltering purpose and pride. So, naturally, I have always been drawn to strong women and, in turn, they have also given me the confidence to express my own femininity. They are not afraid to challenge expectations and I have always been in such awe of their determination. They are warriors”, said Tisci.
Set within the home of the British fashion house, at Burberry’s flagship Regent Street store in London, the presentation opens with visionary rapper, DJ, and singer Shygirl reciting an original spoken-word piece.
It’s no surprise that Tisci wanted this show to be “a big celebration of women” in all their sensuality and power. He said the Burberry vibe had traditionally been a masculine one embodied by the trench, the check, the tailored coat and cashmere scarf.
Fall/Winter 2021 was also a turning point for Tisci: It was his first stand-alone women’s show, and there wasn’t a stitch of streetwear, a puffer or a sneaker in sight.
Instead, intricately cut outerwear and muted paillettes introduced a new lexicon to Tisci’s tenure at Burberry – one that maintains the house’s DNA while opting for new fabrications and silhouettes. Cape silhouettes also abounded, sometimes revealing one or both shoulders. Fur – all faux – was big as well, in coats that had dangling exaggerated pelts and massive bags that almost look carcass-like.
Cut out blazers and cigarette leg pants added a technical flair to formalwear, and complimented the accessories featured in a wide range of hues and textiles.
With looks that reinvent tradition, give a sense of fluidity and encourage freedom of expression, Burberry’s Fall/Winter 2021 women’s collection carried a lot of strength and conviction seen across the models’ confident strut through the space.