Burberry and the Fall 2026 Collection have arrived with a clear point of view: London at night, in all its charged, rain-slicked, restless energy. Chief creative officer Daniel Lee has firmly shifted the house away from the pastoral mood of recent seasons, the wide-open countryside and open-air summer music gatherings, and onto the wet asphalt of the city. This is a collection that knows where it’s going and dresses accordingly.
| 📌 Key Facts |
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| 🌧️ Burberry Fall 2026 takes London nightlife as its central narrative 🧥 The trench coat remains the structural and symbolic core 🗺️ One trench reproduces an archival map of the show’s London location 🏛️ The show was staged at Old Billingsgate with a Tower Bridge replica 🧵 Craftsmanship includes hand-sewn beads, shearling and rainfall embroidery 🎧 Soundtrack curated by Benji B featuring FKA Twigs 🎨 Palette anchored in black, champagne white and Burberry beige |
The show took place inside Old Billingsgate, the Victorian fish market on the north bank of the Thames. There, a replica of Tower Bridge rose from the floor. It was wrapped in Burberry check-patterned scaffolding and lit by streetlamps. The rubber flooring, finished with resin puddles, echoed the look of London streets after rain. The venue itself made a statement: grandeur and utility are not opposites. In fact, they are London’s most reliable double act.
Lee has long understood that the most interesting clothes exist at the intersection of function and beauty. This season, that instinct was sharpened. Leather bombers, hoodies, and raincoats were elevated for the evening without losing their grounded quality. A tuxedo worn with a hoodie underneath felt entirely plausible – the kind of outfit you might throw together at the last minute and get exactly right.
No Burberry collection would be complete without the trench coat, and this one featured several versions. There were trenches cut from fluid faille with ruffled collars; trenches in leather; trenches in ivory and midnight blue; and one extraordinary version whose surface had been tooled to reproduce an archival map of the very stretch of London where the show was held. Lee has said that coat was his personal favorite of the season, and it’s easy to see why. It literally carries London on its back.
For women, the trench coat was loosely thrown over satin dresses with an effortless elegance. The pattern cutting was generous, and the silhouettes were relaxed. There was a deliberate lack of rigidity; the clothes were worn the way Londoners actually wear them – with a slight carelessness that reads as confidence rather than negligence.
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The collection earned its authority through its materials and workmanship. Shearling arrived with raw-cut edges, balancing the roughness of the hide with its softness. Bugle-bead embroidery ran down trouser legs, suggesting rainfall. Hand-knitted dresses caught the light with thousands of individually sewn beads and sequins from the Burberry atelier. The effect was not merely decorative; it was structural and purposeful, tied to the idea of a city that glitters precisely because it is wet.
The color palette remained consistent: black and champagne white anchored a range extending into dark ink blue, burgundy, plum, and the particular Burberry beige that signals the house’s heritage subtly. Solid, saturated colors were used throughout, cleaner and more direct than patterns, giving certain looks a gravity that patterns might have undermined.
What Lee is doing at Burberry is less a reinvention than a refinement. He pulls from the same archive, the same codes, and the same iconic silhouettes and finds in them possibilities that feel current without chasing trends. The soundtrack, curated by London DJ Benji B and featuring tracks from FKA Twigs’ Grammy-winning album Magdalene, reinforced the mood. It was neither nostalgia nor futurism, but rather the particular electricity of being out in a city that never fully quiets down.
This is Burberry at its most focused, dressed for wherever the night may lead without worrying about getting home early.
