The famed Italian fashion house Brioni made a historic move by presenting its first-ever standalone womenswear collection for Fall/WInter 2024. This groundbreaking event, held just steps away from its Milan showroom neighbor, Balenciaga, signifies a bold new chapter for the brand.
Unlike its heritage peers known for luxurious textiles, Brioni has always been rooted in the art of tailoring and construction. This philosophy, described by Creative director Norbert Stumpfl as “letting the classics endure,” remains at the core of the brand’s identity, even as it ventures into new territories.
“Demand has been growing and growing,” explains Stumpfl, “to the point that it seemed right to meet it.” He emphasizes the continuity between the men’s and women’s collections, sharing similar design DNA, materials, and color palettes, while introducing new silhouettes specifically tailored for the female form.
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The collection is crafted in the same renowned Penne facility used for the men’s line, further showcasing the label’s dedication to exceptional craftsmanship. However, unlike the menswear line’s connection to Mariano Fortuny and its emphasis on loose shapes, the womenswear collection primarily focuses on Brioni’s core strength: masterful tailoring.
A standout piece exemplifies Brioni’s expertise in crafting unstructured tailored garments. This ensemble, described by Stumpfl as “crazy” in terms of the skill and precision required, features layers of the finest fabrics that drape flawlessly, creating an illusion of weightlessness despite its substantial appearance. Cashmere, vicuña, silk gabardine, and other luxurious materials are used throughout the collection, alongside expertly tailored pieces like a Prince of Wales silk-wool check field jacket and a dark blue three-piece suit.
The Brioni Fall/Winter 2024 collection extends beyond casual and business attire, venturing into eveningwear territory. A double-breasted notch tuxedo jacket, accented with extra waist darting, paired with white intarsia pants and a 25-karat gold box bag, exudes an aura of refined elegance.
Read more: Brioni Fall/Winter 2024 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Brioni
