New York Fashion Week kicked off with Brandon Maxwell‘s confident vision for the modern American wardrobe – a collection that blends sharp tailoring, luxurious ease and subtle political undertones. Celebrating nearly a decade in fashion, the designer focused on wearable sophistication, prioritizing knits, leathers and layered separates over red-carpet grandeur.
Brandon Maxwell’s Fall/Winter 2025 lineup reflects a personal evolution. After years of navigating grief and creative shifts, he embraced a merchandise-driven approach inspired by the commercial success of Pre-Fall. The result? Streamlined silhouettes like ribbed turtleneck maxi dresses, low-slung leather track pants and elongated pinstripe shirts styled with utility belts. Outerwear stood out: double-breasted bombers and plaid blazers nodded to 1950s menswear, while hooded silk coats offered sophisticated drama.
“I want to be the sweater they grab each morning,” Maxwell remarked, underscoring his pivot from event dressing to elevated essentials. Collaborations with knitwear expert Ryan Roche produced marled sweaters and animal-print intarsia tube dresses. Tactile details – crinkled silk dresses, fluted midi skirts and sporty drawstring trims – balanced polish with practicality. Leather moto jackets paired with faded jeans embodied this duality, though kitten heels were incongruous with Manhattan’s slushy sidewalks.
Subtle nods to Robert Mapplethorpe’s provocative aesthetic appeared in black leather separates, while heritage checks echoed Maxwell’s 2017 collection – softer this time, but no less intentional. The designer acknowledged parallels between today’s climate and the tensions of 2020, though politics remained an undercurrent rather than an overt theme.
Different models embodied individuality, a deliberate choice. “America is personalities colliding,” Maxwell said before the show. Styling emphasized the mix-and-match potential: belted trench coats over turtlenecks, plaid blazers with ribbed knits, track pants with sculptural heels. The absence of overtly “fancy” dresses signaled maturity-a designer confident in making clothes for life, not just milestone moments.
©Photo: Brandon Maxwell