AMI Alexandre Mattiussi’s latest fashion collection, titled ‘’Prelude’’, made its debut on the runway at the Opéra Bastille. This collection, which includes both menswear and womenswear, is a representation of the brand’s desire to establish a more precise and distinguished look. The collection was created by AMI’s founder and creative director, Alexandre Mattiussi, who has had the idea in mind since he founded the brand. This marks a new chapter for both the brand and for him.
‘’Prelude’’ is a collection that harkens back to the core values of AMI Alexandre Mattiussi – simplicity, practicality, freshness, and versatility. The Fall/Winter 2023 collection is lighter in terms of materials, colors, and shapes, which are all softer and more fluid. The collection takes inspiration from the effortless and playful way that French people dress, combining traditional luxury pieces with contemporary, casual ones. The silhouette and colors, which are specific codes defining AMI Alexandre Mattiussi’s modernity, are reinforced to create a richer universe. The collection reinterprets the archetypal fundamentals of the wardrobe, with authentic details, relaxed and refined silhouette, and easy to wear.
The collection features pieces inspired by bourgeois tailoring and heritage pieces, with a twist of lived-in touch that creates a sense of familiarity, expressed in the relaxed fit. The overall silhouette is generous yet refined, marked by deconstructed unisex volumes, which perfectly defines the Parisian, male or female. The collection retains a more masculine vibe but is still accessible and adaptable for women.
AMI Alexandre Mattiussi’s color palette is known for its surprising and often contrasting associations, but this season, the colors are poetic and harmonious, creating a balanced and sophisticated palette. The collection features subtle colors like beige, light brown taupe, light gray, pale pink, vanilla pale yellow, aqua blue, and powdery green, which give the collection its soft and light spirit. These neutral and dusty pastel tones are paired with touches of navy blue and anthracite, complemented by deeper colors in leather garments and accessories.
The fabrics used in the collection reflect the warmth of a cozy Fall/Winter, they are soft, lush, crushed, brushed or fluffy, yet always on the light side. Alexandre Mattiussi is known for using high-quality fabrics like silk, alpaca, and cashmere, which are very tactile and comfortable to wear. Luxurious embroideries (handmade with pearls and beads on tulle) are layered on menswear-inspired pieces, adding character and artistry in an unconventional application.
Accessories are also an important part of the collection, with the “Nap Bag” being the must-have accessory of the season. This large, extra-padded shoulder bag is made of a very soft nappa leather and has a shape that resembles a pillow. The bag’s deconstructed elegance is enhanced by its metallic, Ami de Cœur-shaped clasp. The collection also features a stylish jewelry line that echoes its spirit. The jewels look as if they have been passed on repeatedly from one generation to the next, with beauty that is deliberately imperfect, slightly asymmetric, as is AMI Alexandre Mattiussi’s symbolic Ami de Cœur on the jewelry, while the stones’ setting appears uneven – as if time had faintly contorted or melted it.
