Forget the Eiffel Tower, AMI Alexandre Mattiussi’s Fall/Winter 2024 show featured an even more iconic Parisian landmark – the apartment block. Transforming the Tennis Club de Paris into a sunrise kissed streetscape, Mattiussi invited us to observe the city’s early risers as they hustled and strolled, their wardrobes whispering secrets of morning errands and late-night rendezvous.
And what secrets they were! Tailoring, the lifeblood of AMI Alexandre Mattiussi, took center stage, draped in quiet luxury. Belted trenches that cinched the waist over chunky heeled boots exuded belle de jour allure, while double-breasted coats adorned with gleaming gold buttons hinted at boardroom battles yet to be fought. For men, workwear styles shed their utilitarian skin, with a roomy navy jacket with patch pockets exuding casual elegance. Denim, too, got the Mattiussi treatment, a shirt-and-tie combo peeking out from under a tailored topcoat – a symphony of high and low in perfect Parisian harmony.
But Paris isn’t all croissants and corner cafes. Bohemian souls found solace in fuzzy vests and fur-trimmed trenches, while a touch of punk swagger strutted down the “rue” in combat boots and long military-inspired coats. Evening, when it arrived, was a cozy affair, sparkling minidresses paired with chunky knits and boots, defying the Parisian chill with casual glamour.
Mattiussi’s genius lay in presenting his collection through these diverse characters. We became curious neighbors, peering beneath the belted trenches and wondering about the lives woven into each stitch. Was that Laetitia Casta, the French Marianne herself, rushing off to a rendezvous? Or a young artist clutching a paint-splattered bag, his dreams as vivid as the sunrise?
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Backstage, under his new platinum hair (a Rio souvenir, he joked), Mattiussi revealed the inspiration: his new Paris headquarters. The models, he explained, were the building’s inhabitants, stepping out into their day. From this simple concept came a kaleidoscope of looks, from classic tailoring (always shirtless, of course) to playful skorts and combat culottes. Overcoats sparkled with oversized buttons, while a marinière sweater, reborn in off-white wool, featured a faux-fur chest piece trimmed by Alexandre Mattiussi himself.
“Simplicity, good clothes, good fabrics,” the designer mused. “Not trying too hard.” And that’s the essence of this collection-a love letter to Parisian dawn, minus the chaos, a world where every outfit whispers a story waiting to be unraveled. So put on your trench coat, grab your croissant and step into Alexandre Mattiussi’s Parisian dream. The city awaits, its secrets waiting to be discovered, one impeccably dressed character at a time.
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©Photo: AMI Alexandre Mattiussi
