The Alberta Ferretti Spring/Summer 2025 show, held in the waning light of a Milan evening at the Museo Nazionale Della Scienza e Della Tecnologia, saw the designer at her most ethereal. While wispy chiffon dresses have long been a signature of Ferretti’s, this collection tapped into the ongoing resurgence of the bohemian aesthetic without ever feeling trendy. Lightness and ease permeated the collection, with fabrics like cotton poplin and satin mixing with Ferretti’s beloved chiffon.
Although known for her occasion wear, Alberta Ferretti demonstrated a keen understanding of the modern woman’s wardrobe, offering cotton separates suitable for office days, weekend brunches or evening strolls. These pieces, rendered in crisp white or bold awning stripes, were infused with Ferretti’s signature feminine touch: a portrait neckline here, a peekaboo shoulder there. A strapless orange cotton dress, its clean lines accented by vertical pintucks, showed the unexpected elevation of a humble material, a theme echoed in other shows throughout the day.
But it was the diaphanous chiffon creations that truly captivated the audience. From angelic white halter gowns to dramatic black dresses with cape-like wings, Ferretti offered a spectrum of options, each more stunning than the last. Laser-cut petal and leaf shapes, eschewing sequins and crystals, gave a modern edge to the bohemian spirit. A single blown-glass flower, delicately tied at the neck with a black silk ribbon, served as the only embellishment, a testament to the inherent beauty of the designs.
The collection seamlessly transitioned from daywear to eveningwear, a cohesive vision achieved through delicate handcrafted details, tonal embellishments and a refined palette of white, gray, taupe and black, punctuated by vibrant pops of tangerine and mauve. Pleats, pin-tucks and strategic glimpses of sheer added dimension to otherwise simple silhouettes, while macramé lace and satin panels echoing botanical motifs provided subtle embellishment.
Standout white looks, including a vibrant pleated minidress embellished with satin flowers, set the tone for the collection. Daywear included effortlessly chic pairings: shirts tucked into shorts, revealing delicate bralettes underneath, and tops featuring the recurring botanical theme. Zippered jackets cinched at the waist with drawstrings and wide-legged trousers exuded an air of relaxed confidence, their practicality belies their sophisticated design.
Alberta Ferretti’s evening wear, devoid of ostentatious embellishments, allowed the natural lustre of satin to take center stage. Laser cutting techniques added fluidity to both trousers and dresses, further emphasizing the collection’s celebration of movement.
©Photo: Alberta Ferretti
