Lorenzo Serafini found himself in an unexpected position when the Alberta Ferretti Fall 2026 collection debuted in Dubai instead of Milan. The invitation to open Dubai Fashion Week arrived after the collection was already in development, which turned out to be fortuitous timing. Serafini didn’t design with a specific geography in mind, and he wasn’t about to start now.
| 📌 Key Facts |
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| 🎨 Creative director: Lorenzo Serafini 👗 Collection: Alberta Ferretti Fall-Winter 2026 🌍 Location: Dubai Fashion Week ✂️ Key Concept: Soft power tailoring 🕊️ Aesthetic: Modern romance, fluid femininity 🧵 Materials: Chiffon, velvet, lamb and eel leather 🕰️ References: Victorian tailoring, 1970s fluidity 👠 Focus: Wearable elegance and global appeal |
Presenting far from the Italian fashion capital carried strategic weight. Dubai is a lucrative market for luxury brands, especially those that appeal to women who move between continents and cultures with equal ease. For Serafini, the city’s position between tradition and transformation aligns with his design philosophy. However, he resists the notion that his work responds to regional demands. His woman, he insists, lives everywhere and nowhere all at once.
Serafini’s vision for Alberta Ferretti has sharpened since he took the creative helm. The Fall 2026 collection demonstrated this clarity through what he calls “soft power tailoring.” Silhouettes moved closer to the body without clinging. Jackets featured cinched waists and rounded shoulders, creating a structure that framed the body without constricting it. Pleated A-line skirts, cut from soft nappa leather, swung with deliberate ease. Underneath the tailored pieces, ruched blouses made of sheer fabrics revealed vulnerability without appearing weak.
Serafini’s commitment to romance is unwavering, despite fashion’s periodic declarations that such sensibilities belong to another era. He doesn’t view romantic design through the lens of nostalgia, but rather through the practicality of what makes women feel confident. The peplum jackets and defined waistlines weren’t just pretty details. They created a silhouette that gave the wearer control over how her body moved through space.
The collection drew inspiration from two distinct historical periods. Victorian-era references appeared in the interplay between masculine structure and feminine detail, particularly in the tailoring that paired sleek leather pieces with translucent, gathered shirts. Meanwhile, a 1970s sensibility hovered over the flowing chiffon caftans and caped silhouettes that have become a hallmark of Serafini’s work.
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However, Dubai’s audience likely responded most enthusiastically to the evening wear. Chiffon gowns flowed down the runway with languid volumes and soft silhouettes. Ostrich-feather embellishments and beaded embroideries added ornamentation without overwhelming the restrained color scheme. Velvet caped dresses in ruby and aubergine exuded sophistication with their clean lines and rich colors.
The leatherwork deserved particular attention. Serafini used lamb and eel skins with shibori-like finishes for pencil skirts and outerwear. This technique added texture while maintaining the unfussy quality characteristic of his daywear. Slouchy boots and flat ballerina shoes grounded the collection in wearability — a practical consideration that is sometimes overlooked when designers pursue runway drama.
Alberta Ferretti herself attended the Dubai presentation and seemed touched by what she saw. Serafini acknowledges his good fortune in finding a house aligned with his aesthetic sensibilities. When Ferretti stepped back from her day-to-day creative duties, she gave him freedom rather than constraints. Her advice was simple: Don’t be afraid. Serafini has taken that counsel seriously.
He believes that the fashion industry’s constant turnover of designers serves no useful purpose. Creatives need time to understand a company, inhabit its style, and develop their vision within those parameters. Revolution for its own sake confuses clients, alienates the press, and dilutes brand identity. Serafini’s approach has been gradual and attentive – a strategy that seems increasingly rare in an industry addicted to disruption.
