Pieter Mulier’s Summer/Fall 2024 collection for Alaïa was a revelation. As the models glided across the mirrored floor of the Parisian boutique, their clothes unfolded like living sculptures, sending ripples of surprise and delight through the room. It was a radical departure from anything we’ve seen this season, or indeed, from anything Mulier has shown at Alaïa before.
At the heart of this collection was a single, unexpected material: merino wool. Mulier had been working with this versatile fiber for a year, developing a unique yarn that could be manipulated to mimic everything from denim and velvet to shearling and animal prints. The results were nothing short of astonishing.
Draped tops cascaded in elegant folds, minimalist skirts and dresses were artfully looped and wrapped, and a black jumpsuit appeared to be sculpted from a single continuous piece of fabric. Throughout the collection, there was a constant interplay between revealing and concealing, a subtle sensuality that never felt crass or obvious.
Mulier has spent the past few seasons carefully navigating the legacy of Azzedine Alaïa, the house’s founder. With this collection, he finally stepped out of the shadow of the master and into his own creative territory.
Of course, there were still subtle nods to Alaïa’s codes: the use of snaps in a polka-dot pattern, the sculptural wool puffs on glove-gauntlets, the curviform jeans and jacquard animal prints. But these were more like winks to the past, not constraints on the present.
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Ultimately, this collection was about creating a wardrobe for the modern Alaïa woman. A woman who is confident, sophisticated, and unafraid to push boundaries. A woman who appreciates both the art of couture and the comfort of everyday wear.
With his masterful use of merino wool, Mulier has shown that sometimes, the simplest materials can yield the most extraordinary results. This collection is a testament to his talent, his vision, and his unwavering commitment to the legacy of Azzedine Alaïa. It is, without a doubt, one of the most important collections of the season.
Read more: Fendi Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024
©Photo: Alaïa
