Acne Studios has always been synonymous with a distinctive aesthetic, and for Fall/Winter 2025, Jonny Johansson explores an intriguing Nordic duality. At Paris Fashion Week, Johansson presented a collection he described as an “exercise in contrasts,” reflecting his personal heritage, deeply rooted in the Swedish countryside, juxtaposed with the dynamic allure of urban sophistication.
The runway opened with a mohair bodysuit, soft and fluffy from the front, yet daringly revealing from the back. Johansson humorously acknowledged Sweden’s liberal attitude toward nudity, acknowledging a natural ease with baring skin. This playful tension between modesty and exposure remained a central theme throughout the collection.
Johansson drew inspiration from childhood nostalgia, specifically his own well-worn teddy bear key chain. The beloved toy influenced several standout pieces, including oversized coats made from plush Steiff-like fabric, complete with exaggerated shoulders and articulated arms reminiscent of vintage stuffed bears. This playful element extended to stylized bear prints adorning delicate nude tea dresses and sheer chiffon gowns, evoking a whimsical charm.
But Acne Studios’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection didn’t just dwell on cozy, country comfort. Johansson seamlessly transitioned into bold urban silhouettes that echoed the empowered femininity of the 1980s classic “Working Girl.” Boxy, oversized jackets were confidently paired with tailored pantsuits, while slicked-back hairstyles, mirrored aviator sunglasses, and shiny statement earrings emphasized urban sophistication. Johansson’s urban woman is confident, powerful and unapologetically stylish.
The collection also introduced imaginative details, such as massively oversized felt boots paired unconventionally under semi-transparent dresses, cleverly playing between practicality and avant-garde style. Denim was given a rougher treatment with irregular flocking and fuzzy fringe, while ladylike knits in boiled wool and textured leather shirts added a touch of sophistication. Unique pieces such as PVC-wrapped denim and chiffon dresses with dramatic ribbon embellishments offered fresh, unexpected textures.
Accessories further emphasized Johansson’s exploration of contrast. Elegant thigh-high leather boots featured striking ostrich textures, while oversized photographer’s bags were embellished with faux fur trims, balancing luxury with practicality. Even the traditional Nordic knit pattern experienced a contemporary reinterpretation, creatively transformed into integrated scarf-sash designs that felt both innovative and comfortingly familiar.
In particular, Johansson collaborated with Björk for this presentation. Inspired by her iconic song “Human Behavior” and its imaginative music video, Johansson invited the musician to reinterpret the track specifically for this runway. The surreal imagery of bears from Björk’s original work influenced Johansson’s creative direction, resulting in designs that resonate with playful surrealism. Yet beneath this whimsical exterior were thoughtfully designed, truly wearable garments.
The show’s set further captured Johansson’s dual narrative. Skyscraper forms juxtaposed with tapestry-covered river stones symbolized the friction between urban energy and rural tranquility. Johansson openly expressed how these elements reflected his personal experience of moving between the quiet serenity of the Swedish countryside and the fast-paced excitement of city life.
©Photo: Acne Studios