Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are not wasting time. With their Loewe Fall 2026 collection, the American designers, formerly of Proenza Schouler, have delivered a second show that propels the Spanish fashion house into thrilling new territory. The clothes are strange, funny, and, at times, nearly absurd. That is precisely the point.
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| 🧵 Loewe explores craftsmanship that deliberately hides the human hand. 🧪 Latex dresses are 3D-printed with details molded directly into the surface. 🎈 Coats and skirts incorporate inflatable elements, creating surreal silhouettes. 👔 Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez introduce their first Loewe menswear collection. 🎨 The show references German artist Cosima von Bonin. 🏬 Loewe opens a second Casa Loewe on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. |
Techno music shook the runway venue. Yellow – cab yellow, emphatic and unambiguous – covered the floor. Models moved through the space wearing latex slip dresses, inflatable outerwear, and shearling coats that looked as though a Parisian dog groomer had been given full creative authority. A gingham skirt peeked out from beneath a heavy wool coat. Backstage, air pump attachments shaped like lobster claws cheerfully explained everything.
Craft has long been a cornerstone of Loewe, formally enshrined through the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize. McCollough and Hernandez will serve as jurors for this prize for the first time in 2026. However, the two designers are approaching the concept in a way that few would have anticipated. While many designers celebrate visible stitching and exposed seams, McCollough and Hernandez are after something different. Their leather jackets are skived to near-nothingness, fused and finished until the human touch disappears entirely. The result looks machine-made, which to them represents the highest form of skill.
This mindset permeated the entire collection. Latex slip dresses were 3D-printed in molds with lace trim and bow details pressed directly into the surface in bas-relief. Zip-front coats made of the same material moved like water balloons: smooth, weightless, and slightly silly. Tailored wool coats had inflatable scarves or skirts that looked like they were borrowed from a swimming pool supply store. The mood was buoyant – and not just figuratively.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez also introduced their first menswear collection, confidently translating the same logic across genders. A cotton parka in a deep ultramarine blue stood out for its quiet elegance among the louder pieces. Corduroy jeans were made of shearling and were cut into wide-wale shapes that made the material feel entirely new. Rubbery kitten heels with the silhouette of swim shoes and visors secured to the head with thick straps extended the athletic American sportswear theme of their debut season.
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The artistic reference point for the show was Cosima von Bonin, a German artist known for her oversized sculptural animals and wry relationship with consumer culture. Her influence was evident in the gingham accents and hand-painted floral prints. Literally, her influence appeared in the front row where stuffed dogs and sea creatures sat beside Sissy Spacek, Julia Garner, and Lil Yachty.
The fall show comes as Loewe is expanding its physical presence with the opening of a second Casa Loewe on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. The space reflects the same priorities that McCollough and Hernández are bringing to the clothes: color, wit, and a genuine investment in craftsmanship.
