Inside the Brera trattoria, the atmosphere felt less like a fashion presentation and more like a secret meeting of a woodland society. Marco de Vincenzo chose this intimate setting to unveil the Etro menswear proposal for Fall 2026, transforming the dimly lit back rooms into a silent theater of the absurd. Mannequins replaced models, their human faces obscured by Venetian papier-mâché masks depicting foxes, owls, rams, and bears. This was not a standard runway procession where garments flash by in seconds. The static display allowed the audience to stare into the hollow eyes of these hybrid creatures, affectionately dubbed “Ani-men” by the designer.
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| 🐺 Collection: Etro Fall 2026 Menswear 🎨 Creative Director: Marco de Vincenzo 🐾 Concept: “Ani-men” — instinct vs. intellect 🏛️ Inspiration: Etro 1997 campaign by Kean Etro 🧵 Key Materials: Tweed, leather, velvet, jacquard knits 🌀 Signature Code: Paisley as brand DNA 🎭 Presentation: Static mannequins with animal masks 🎶 Soundtrack: Wendy Carlos (A Clockwork Orange) |
De Vincenzo looked to the past to define the present. He pulled a thread from a 1997 campaign conceived by Kean Etro that explored the concept of physiognomy. That earlier visual experiment suggested that refined human behavior often masks a raw, animalistic nature. The current Creative director found this tension between the civilized and the feral to be fertile ground for exploration. He did not simply replicate the archival images. Instead, the designer used them as a psychological framework to examine how clothing functions as both camouflage and plumage.
The garments themselves straddled the line between bourgeois propriety and wild eccentricity. Robust tweeds in shades of tawny brown and rust evoked a weekend in the country, but a closer look revealed lapels adorned with feathers. The texture was crucial here. It grounded the fantasy in something tactile depth and substantial. De Vincenzo applied pixelated jacquards to plush knitwear; the sweet face of a deer might peer out from the chest of one of these garments. Leather biker jackets and evening blousons bore owl faces worked directly into the material. These were not subtle hints. The animal imagery was direct, confronting viewers with the literal face of nature.
Paisley appeared throughout the lineup, acting as the genetic marker of the brand – a thread that also runs through the earlier Spring/Summer 2025 maximalist turn. It covered silky shirts and fancy dinner jackets, linking these new hybrid creatures to the brand’s lineage. The pattern felt inevitable rather than repetitive. De Vincenzo treated it as a foundational element that supported his creative ideas. He paired these intricate textiles with velvet robes and slouchy pajamas, suggesting a lifestyle that values comfort as much as display. The “ani-men” appeared relaxed in their finery, resembling aristocrats who had embraced their true nature.
A haunting electronic hum filled the space, courtesy of Wendy Carlos. Carlos is famous for her synthesized reinterpretations of Bach and her soundtracks for films like A Clockwork Orange. Her presence in the room was audible yet significant. De Vincenzo sees a parallel between her work and his own time at the house. Carlos took classical compositions and rewired them for a new era, receiving both praise and criticism for her audacity. The designer views his role similarly. He is taking the established codes of an historic Italian label and reshaping them to his own taste – toward a more accessible “maximalist minimalism”.
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De Vincenzo himself remains a fascinating study in contrasts. Even after more than three years of directing the brand, De Vincenzo is still navigating the vast archives and defining his territory. He consulted with Kean Etro to understand the deeper meaning behind the animal iconography, seeking the intellect behind the instinct. When asked to identify his spirit animal, the designer revealed that he is a horse according to the Chinese zodiac. Those born under that sign are typically energetic, independent, and adventurous. Looking at the collection, one can see those traits manifested in the clothes. This season’s Etro man is certainly not one to follow the herd, even if he chooses to wear a mask.
