Vacheron Constantin reimagines one of its most emblematic complications with three new 36.5 mm Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models. Inspired by a landmark 1980s reference, these timepieces blend historic proportions, haute horlogerie craftsmanship, and a contemporary understanding of elegance, proving that true sophistication lies in balance, not size.
A return to iconic proportions
Vacheron Constantin has always understood the delicate balance between technical achievement and aesthetic refinement. The new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models are precisely 36.5 millimeters in diameter and 8.43 millimeters thick. This sizing decision was not arbitrary. It directly references the legendary Reference 43031 from 1983, which was the brand’s definitive perpetual calendar for two decades.
Sandrine Donguy, Vacheron Constantin’s Product and Innovation Director, explained the rationale behind this case size: “After more than a decade of large watches, many people are rediscovering the beauty and comfort of smaller case sizes.” She notes that traditional gender divisions in watch sizing have blurred considerably. The 36.5 mm diameter offers the perfect “sweet spot” between presence and discretion, she says.
Why the 36.5 mm format matters today
The perpetual calendar complication has deep roots in Vacheron Constantin’s history. The manufacturer’s first perpetual calendar was an observatory watch created in 1884 and now preserved in the brand’s private collection. This complex mechanism automatically adjusts for anomalies in the Gregorian calendar, including varying month lengths and leap years. It requires no manual correction until the year 2100.
Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in ultra-thin movements dates back even further. Since the 1930s, the company has consistently set records for the slimmest mechanical watches. However, their approach has never simply been about breaking thinness records. Instead, they have focused on achieving the difficult balance of creating fine components while maintaining robust construction.
A letter from 1829 reveals this longstanding philosophy. Jacques Barthélémi wrote to François Constantin, “We thought it would be good to create some thin timepieces with a verge escapement. We took the greatest care to ensure that they would be superior to those in the same category sold by our competitors!” This commitment to excellence while maintaining practical functionality has guided the brand for generations.
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Inside the Calibre 1120 QP
At the heart of these new models is the Manufacture Calibre 1120 QP, a remarkable movement that combines impressive technical capability with breathtaking slimness. Despite containing 276 components, the 4.05-millimeter-thick movement offers approximately 40 hours of power reserve.
This self-winding caliber displays the hours and minutes, as well as the complete perpetual calendar: the day of the week, the date, the month, and the four-year leap year cycle. The moon phase and age of the moon complication appears at six o’clock and is executed with Vacheron Constantin’s customary precision.
The most impressive aspect of the caliber 1120 QP is its ability to reconcile seemingly contradictory requirements. Ultra-thin movements face a fundamental challenge: smaller, thinner components are inherently less stable and robust, yet stability and robustness are essential for accurate timekeeping. The movement architecture and component design demonstrate decades of expertise in overcoming this challenge.
The finishing honors Geneva’s highest watchmaking traditions. Though hidden beneath the dial, the mainplate features circular graining. The sapphire caseback reveals bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, hand-beveled edges, circular satin-finished jewel sinks, and polished teeth on the going train wheels. The open-worked oscillating weight, shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem, contains a 22-karat gold segment and features the same Côtes de Genève decoration.
Three interpretations of modern elegance
Vacheron Constantin offers the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in three versions that express different aspects of the brand’s design philosophy.
The 18K 5N pink gold model emphasizes tonal harmony throughout. The case, faceted dauphine hands, and applied baton hour markers are all made of the same warm material. This creates a unified appearance, broken only by the dark blue background of the moon phase display at the six o’clock position. It is matched by a dark blue alligator strap.
The 18K white gold version plays with classic contrasts. Here, the cool white metal case houses pink gold hands and hour markers, creating subtle visual interest. The moon phase display features a lighter blue background and is complemented by a light brown alligator strap in a new shade developed specifically for this model.
The third version adds sparkle to the white gold case with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the bezel and the top of the lugs. The crown features an additional round-cut diamond. Despite its diamond accents, this model maintains a minimalist color palette, pairing white gold hands and markers with a silvery opaline dial. The cool, white sparkle of the diamonds harmonizes with the dial’s tone, and the dark blue moon phase display matches the dark blue alligator strap.
Design codes born from Genevan tradition
All three models carry forward the design codes that define the Traditionnelle collection. These aesthetic elements can be traced back to 18th-century Geneva watchmaking and include a stepped round case, straight-sided lugs, a slender bezel, and a fluted caseback. The dials emphasize balance, proportion, and legibility with their railway minute track, applied gold hour markers, and faceted hands.
The dial layout follows classical principles of symmetry and visual harmony. The three subdials for the day, date, and month are perfectly balanced around the dial. Their circular forms echo the moon phase aperture at six o’clock. The silver-toned opaline background provides ideal contrast for the indications while maintaining an elegant, understated appearance.
This attention to proportion and balance serves a practical purpose. It serves the practical purpose of making complex information immediately legible. While many manufacturers struggle to fit perpetual calendar indications onto small dials without sacrificing clarity, Vacheron Constantin elegantly solves this challenge through proper design proportions.
A contemporary tribute to a legendary reference
These new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models will be released in 2025, when Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary. Each piece bears a special emblem commemorating this milestone. More importantly, they represent the continuation of a living tradition that has evolved while maintaining its core values.
The Reference 43031, which inspired these new models, appeared during the difficult years of the quartz crisis, when interest in mechanical watchmaking dramatically waned. Its creation demonstrated Vacheron Constantin’s unwavering commitment to high watchmaking, even in the face of commercial challenges. Today’s reinterpretation speaks to a similar conviction during a time when the industry is facing different yet equally significant challenges.
Vacheron Constantin has never pursued ultra-thin watchmaking as an end in itself. As Donguy explains, their philosophy has always balanced “the design and materials technology of the day with the beauty and values of 18^(th)-century Genevan Haute Horlogerie that remain at the core of our identity.” These new Traditionnelle models embody this principle perfectly.
Vacheron Constantin has not yet disclosed pricing for the three new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin references. Given their precious metal cases, in-house perpetual calendar movements, and extensive hand-finishing, expect the prices to reflect their positioning in the luxury segment. The watches will be available through Vacheron Constantin boutiques and authorized retailers after the December 2025 announcement.
FAQ
What makes a perpetual calendar different from a standard calendar complication?
A perpetual calendar automatically accounts for irregular month lengths and leap years, requiring no manual correction until 2100.
Why are ultra-thin mechanical movements difficult to engineer?
Because thinner components are naturally less stable, watchmakers must design movements that balance slimness, durability, and precision without compromising reliability.
Is a 36.5 mm watch size suitable for all wrists?
Yes. Modern watchmaking trends increasingly favor versatile, smaller proportions, and 36.5 mm is widely considered a “sweet spot” between elegance and wearability.
How long is the power reserve of the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1120 QP?
The movement offers approximately 40 hours of power reserve despite its minimal 4.05 mm thickness.