The Lanvin Spring 2026 collection offers a refined look at history while offering a sharp eye toward present fashion needs. The Paris presentation unfolded with poise, neither feeling nostalgic nor heavy.
Now settled in his role as artistic director, Peter Copping used the season to examine Jeanne Lanvin’s archive with fresh intent. He revisited signatures from the 1920s, such as low-slung dresses, geometric motifs, and the robe de style, yet approached them with a light touch. The shapes appeared precise yet not stiff, reminding us that modern clothing flourishes when past ideas are reinterpreted rather than simply repeated.
Blue played a striking role. The shade, forever tied to Jeanne Lanvin, appeared throughout the collection. Vivid blue dresses created a quiet connection between the house’s heritage and the centenary celebrations of Art Deco. Even Copping’s own bow reflected this choice; his shirt and gaze echoed the same hue.
The designer avoided excess volume, instead looking for subtlety. Cocktail and evening dresses featured delicate embroidery softened by chiffon overlays or transformed into graphic prints. This technique made the pieces sophisticated yet approachable. They suggested glamour, but with a tone designed for modern wearers rather than for display in a museum.
Ribbons added a sensual touch to silhouettes inspired by the Jazz Age. Flapper dresses opened along the sides and were tied casually at the hips. Jackets and sweaters had unexpected cutouts in the back and were held by grosgrain bands that reappeared throughout the collection. These details reinforced a sense of craftsmanship while maintaining a contemporary aesthetic.
Copping also reimagined the trench coat. Instead of treating it as utilitarian, he designed it to resemble a dress with a cinched waist, full skirt, and structured sleeves. The effect was dramatic yet wearable. White skirts with black godets amplified the Art Deco spirit while remaining uncluttered. The result was sharp and minimal while nodding to the exuberance of the 1920s.
Follow all the latest news from Fashionotography on Flipboard, or receive it directly in your inbox with Feeder.
You might also read
The menswear collection was less conclusive but still intriguing. Bright jeans, technical jackets, and substantial leather coats offered varied options. When the elements aligned, the mood recalled an off-duty star. Tailored summer suits, worn with sweeping coats, hinted at the direction in which the men’s line might head next.
One of the defining features of the Lanvin Spring 2026 collection was the return of the robe de style. This dress, once central to Jeanne Lanvin’s vision, found new relevance. Copping softened the construction by washing the silks to give them ease and movement. This approach transformed what could have been a stiff silhouette into something suited for contemporary life.
The use of archival embroideries further linked the past with the present. Some were veiled, while others were reinterpreted as prints, ensuring the house’s codes were visible yet updated. A few pieces featured geometric embroideries that celebrated the Art Deco style of a century ago. The show demonstrated to observers that design legacies survive through careful renewal rather than simple reproduction.
Accessories carried the theme through headbands and ribbons that echoed the spirit of 1920s styling. Menswear and womenswear intersected through shared detailing, including head wraps. These subtle bridges created connections between categories without forcing them together.
